e. chimp,
installing new pickups isn't too difficult if you don't mind spending some
time becoming somewhat proficient at soldering. if you know how to solder, then
you're gold.
i put some lindy fralin pickups in a bass that i have and they sound great.
http://www.fralinpickups.com
i should confess that i'm not full-time bass player, but i know other people,
guitar players and bass players, that swear by fralin pickups. you're right
in that the pickups you choose, the sound they create, etc. are all
fairly subjective.
installing pickups and changing pickups shouldn't be an unweldy
proposition. it's all in how much time and money you want to spend to
get a particular sound.
spend 15 bucks on a soldering iron and you should be on your way.
cheers,
brian