r0ck1r0ck2 wrote:and that metal gibson was complete shit..
i don't know what in the hell you're talking about zom.zom.
complete shit.

and ofcourse there was no way to disable it..

I had one on a Melody Maker and one on an old SG. They worked great. No tuning problems. My experience is what I'm talking about.

kerble wrote:Very true. My band-mate ordered his Electrical a while back with a Bigsby. My reaction? "A Bigsby?!? Are you fucking kidding me?!?" I would NEVER get a guitar with a Bigsby, or for that matter, any other type of tremolo setup. And at first I was going to give him major shit for that, but after thinking about it I decided "No. You know what? That's just the type of guy he is. All of his guitars have tremolos! Why should this one be any different?" You either are, or you're not.

I'm thinking you're not. Don't get it.

Yeah, but Bigsbys do suck.
They don't do much, but throw your guitar out of tune.
All other trems can work pretty well. I can usually just do a neck or above the nut bend and get the travel of a Bigsby.

The new Ric one is more like a Strat trem. They work great, and are unobtrusive (unlike a Bigsby). If you don't use it and the bar's not on, it may as well not be there.

-A

alex maiolo wrote:If you don't use it and the bar's not on, it may as well not be there.

There are two major caveats to that statement:

1. If you bend a string, the other strings will go out of tune.

2. If you break a string, the other strings will go out of tune.

The Rickenbacker trem looks like it's designed to float, and thus can't be locked down if the mighty Kerble doesn't like it.

Adam CR wrote:The Rickenbacker trem looks like it's designed to float, and thus can't be locked down if the mighty Kerble doesn't like it.

actually, I have it locked down about close to being a hardtail as you can be. no tuning issues, and has stayed just fine for hours. the fifth spring clamped it to the body and it doesn't move the notes when you push down on it. I think it has maybe 1/3 mm of wiggle room. not much there to detune.

This thing sounds great. I hated the lame-o round-wound 9s they put on it, so I restrung it with 11 flats instead. naturally, the vibrato started to nosedive. I din't feel like learning a new thing tonight, so I just attached all five springs, clamped down the vibrato (which, might I add, is tiny and sleek) and have been happily playing just a-ok.

the side of the bridge that touches the body is actually flat flat and closes off just fine.


I just checked it again after wiggling the vibrato arm.


still in tune.



boom boom.

one of these months, I'll learn how to use it.


[this is where you guys explain to me how to tune a tremolo arm, and doing the graphite thingus with the nut and such]

kerble wrote:actually, I have it locked down about close to being a hardtail as you can be.

Ah, interesting. My mistake!

Adam CR wrote:

kerble wrote:actually, I have it locked down about close to being a hardtail as you can be.

Ah, interesting. My mistake!

I thought it was going to do the same thing you did, though until I saw it.


this part is flat, not angled, as it appeared. the top of the bridge carries the angle, instead. crazy.

when are you going to have your first rehearsal with this fucker?

and please dear kerble..put a picture or two up ok?

congradulations on your new guitar.

Adam CR wrote:

alex maiolo wrote:If you don't use it and the bar's not on, it may as well not be there.

There are two major caveats to that statement:

1. If you bend a string, the other strings will go out of tune.

As I said above, crank down 5 springs and that won't happen. You don't have the strength to dip the bridge by bending a note when you've cranked down 5 springs.
Well, maybe you do, but you'd be the first person I'd met who did

2. If you break a string, the other strings will go out of tune.

Same as above.

The Rickenbacker trem looks like it's designed to float, and thus can't be locked down if the mighty Kerble doesn't like it.

If that's true, then yes, everything I've just said is incorrect. I don't think it's a floating trem though.

-A

To keep it in tune:
There are really only a few things, but they are key.

First of all, if it was set up for 9's, and you have 11's on it, they will bind at the nut. That can happen even if you bend strings hard. Get it set up to take 11's. It will only cost $30-50 and your guy will shape the nut to take 11's.

Then, take a pencil, place the tip in the nut and rotate it until the graphite powders into the slots. Do that every time you change strings and you're OK. No need to do it any more often.

Some people put a drop of 3-in-1 Oil on each bridge saddle. I don't like that.
Plus, it attracts all sorts of various clum.

Mainly, string your guitar right.
Two wraps or less on the heaviest string.
Progressively more until you get to the thinnest.
The wound strings can bind, so remove the number of chances that that can happen, by not putting 10 wraps on the post.
The unwound strings can slip, so wind them enough so they won't
You get the idea.
Wind the string *down* the post, and don't let it overlap anywhere. When I see a bird's nest of string on a tuning peg I get frustrated. Winding down the post also creates a little extra downward tension due to the increased angle.

Last of all, when tuning, always tune UP to a note. That puts the tension on the gear. If you tune sharp, drop it and try again. Tuning down to a note leaves play in the gear. It's amazing how few people do this.

The stringing/tuning advice is sound for all guitars. Very, very few tuning pegs fail. They get sloppy, or they may be crappy from the factory, but if you do the above, nearly any guitar will stay in tune. Obviously the higher the quality parts the better, and you're in good shape there.

Pictures please!

-A