chris jury wrote:My main concern with building out of MDF, or particle board, would be the corners.

yep.
that's trouble alright.
gotta get some hardware one of these days..

chris jury wrote:My main concern with building out of MDF, or particle board, would be the corners. I know ours take a hell of a beating on the road, and MDF flakes and chips like crazy. The Dietz' have that epoxy paint and the aluminum valences all the way around to prevent this....

That and MDF is not designed for prolonged exposure to moist environments like the typical basement practice space, leaky van or vagina.

chris jury wrote:When i build them for folks i use baltic birch for the 'exterior' because it'll take a beating, can be routered nicely and is lighter than MDF. I use regular 3/4 birch for the back and baffle (unless asked otherwise), because it's lighter, less expensive, and isn't subject to the same damage.

The price difference between regular birch plywood and Baltic birch plywood isn't that big! According to the fine folks at Dunn, Baltic birch is $51.72 for a 5' x 5' sheet versus shitty shop grade birch at $54.72 for a 4' x 8' sheet. That's $2.06 a square foot versus $1.71 a square foot. I say go for the quality. Then again, I'm also the guy who insisted that our cabinets have every joint glued thus resulting in cabinets strong enough to survive being run over by the van but that took a lot more time, math and hands to assemble than the EV prints would indicate. I tell ya though, when I eventually back over the cabinets with the van, you'll be thanking me.

Dan

I just scored the deal of the year (well, it's only April) on a Mesa Diesel 1x15. Near perfect condition...with the original Mesa Boogie "dust cover."

Only $120!

ChristopherM wrote:I just scored the deal of the year (well, it's only April) on a Mesa Diesel 1x15. Near perfect condition...with the original Mesa Boogie "dust cover."

Only $120!

Salut!

Again, such a great cabinet. After playing through mine for a few months, I can't go back to my old 4x10. The Mesa/Dietz style cabinets also sound a million times better than any other currently available 1x15 I've heard (I'm looking at you Ampeg).

I'll gladly trade my Dietz 1X15

with EV-ML15



for a Mesa Diesel 1X15 with a EV-ML15 (in real good condition..)

I like the Mesa cab better and these two cabs don't sit on top of each other very well..

(as an added bonus, the Dietz went on tour with Breadwinner/Jesus Lizard in the early 1990's and has a nice coating of silver paint on it now and a reconed EV in it.. own a piece of history, EA ladies and gentlemen)

catch is you have to come to me- shipping is not worth it. pm me if interested.

mr.arrison wrote:I'll gladly trade my Dietz 1X15

with EV-ML15

for a Mesa Diesel 1X15 with a EV-ML15 (in real good condition..)

I like the Mesa cab better and these two cabs don't sit on top of each other very well..

(as an added bonus, the Dietz went on tour with Breadwinner/Jesus Lizard in the early 1990's and has a nice coating of silver paint on it now and a reconed EV in it.. own a piece of history, EA ladies and gentlemen)

catch is you have to come to me- shipping is not worth it. pm me if interested.

damn, and i need a keyboard rig.

I'm gearing up to build my cab and have a few questions for yall who have built one.

1) The EV plan doesn't really specify the dimensions for the cleat material other than the one that runs horizontally at the bottom of the baffle. Looks like that one should be 2 1/2". The ones that stand up on edge at the bottom creating the ports are specified at 2". What about the rest of the cleats for the framing? It looks like they should be 2". Not sure if this is critical, just wondering if anybody has any experience as to which width works best.

2)What should I use for the cleat material? The plan specifies fir, is good old soft pine sufficient?

3) I read that the EV plans call for 3" insulation. In this thread it is mentioned that the Dietz versions do not have any insulation. In your experiences which is better?

4) Is there a good website to go to to find an input jack, and are there any particulars that I should be watching for when I purchase one?
(good carpentry skills, electronics........not so much.)

5) What gauge wire should I use inside the cab? I will be installing a 200 watt 8 ohm EVM-15L series II.

6)If I glue and screw the baffle in permanently is it pretty easy to get the speaker in and out using these T-nuts? I am not familiar with these "nuts", but will be checking them out at the hardware store this afternoon. Has anyone left their baffle "removeable"? Maybe using screws and some kind of gasket? Or is this not a good idea?

I'm going to get the Baltic birch in a little while, looks like I will be able to get 2 sides, top, back, and baffle out of 1 5x5 sheet. I haven't been so excited about buiding something in sometime.

I was going to bring up this thread since Im starting to build my dietz tomorrow!

Good questions field, what I was going to ask is the first question you asked:

field wrote:1) The EV plan doesn't really specify the dimensions for the cleat material other than the one that runs horizontally at the bottom of the baffle. Looks like that one should be 2 1/2". The ones that stand up on edge at the bottom creating the ports are specified at 2". What about the rest of the cleats for the framing? It looks like they should be 2". Not sure if this is critical, just wondering if anybody has any experience as to which width works best.

cool, I'll keep you updated with my project. I got the T-Nuts, they are self-elpanetory. I can see why this is the way to go. The 5x5 3/4" Baltic birch went up to $68.00 a sheet. I got some rough sawn maple for the cleating, same place I got the Birch. I can manipulate these couple boards into dimensional cleating as called on the plan. I'm gonna go with 2" cleats unless someone else lets me know otherwise.
Good Luck