for those not inclined to do woodworking: there's some dude running a terribly-named company called "Boogafunk" that is making the EV thiele designed cabs out of arauco wood and some of the designs look quite nice. yes, even the 1X15 models.
He's coating them in something indestructable that isn't tolex. Some of the Dietzes have epoxy resin covering them. Might be similar..
You can find him on eBay.
Dietz Cabinets.
102chris jury wrote:Eliya- I don't know that it makes much of a difference, screwing the cleats from the inside or outside. with all the glue, they aren't going anywhere, but i throw some screws in just so i don't have to try to clamp anything...and i do that from the inside so i don't have to countersink or have screw heads along the exterior ( i would have to pay closer attention to my screw spacign instead of just throwing a few in).
Thanks Chris, that's very helpful!
Dietz Cabinets.
103I started by attaching the cleating to the bottom panel, allowing for the exact dimension of the sheating on sides and back.
The 3/4 often times isn't a perfect 3/4's, cut a little chunk off and use it as a guide when positioning cleating. This way everything will line up nice when you put on the sides/ back. Glue and clamp the cleating before securing.
Do the same with your cleating, when you get going use a scrap piece of cleating and allow for its own actual dimension. After the base was done, I cut cleating for sides and back, using a scrap and overall dimensions made figuring easier. This cuts down on some of the tape measuring. Mark and cut, just keep the overall dimension of the cab in mind.
Make sure to check that the cab stays square thru the assembly, I pre-cut the outside panels to exact dimension. During the construction I referenced the sides, which I triple checked for squareness, against the half built cab to see if it was square or not.
I also found some small trim nails handy when attaching the outside panels, I drilled 2 small holes opposite corners on panel into cleating, glued the piss out of it, positioned carefully then tacked in place with trim nails. Then screwed down with 1 1/4" screws. This helped me to keep panels from "walking around" when I was trying to screw down.
I did all screwing from outside, I was more worried about structural integrity than looks, although measuring out the distance between screws and being carefull not to sink to far created a clean look.
Speaker from outside!! Definately use the T-nuts. Be carefull when tapping the backside or female part into the baffle, not to break baffle. There is not much room between T-nut holes and speaker cut out.
Not saying this is the right way to do it, as I have only built one of these things. But it worked.
I took my time and am really happy with the results, it sounds great!
The 3/4 often times isn't a perfect 3/4's, cut a little chunk off and use it as a guide when positioning cleating. This way everything will line up nice when you put on the sides/ back. Glue and clamp the cleating before securing.
Do the same with your cleating, when you get going use a scrap piece of cleating and allow for its own actual dimension. After the base was done, I cut cleating for sides and back, using a scrap and overall dimensions made figuring easier. This cuts down on some of the tape measuring. Mark and cut, just keep the overall dimension of the cab in mind.
Make sure to check that the cab stays square thru the assembly, I pre-cut the outside panels to exact dimension. During the construction I referenced the sides, which I triple checked for squareness, against the half built cab to see if it was square or not.
I also found some small trim nails handy when attaching the outside panels, I drilled 2 small holes opposite corners on panel into cleating, glued the piss out of it, positioned carefully then tacked in place with trim nails. Then screwed down with 1 1/4" screws. This helped me to keep panels from "walking around" when I was trying to screw down.
I did all screwing from outside, I was more worried about structural integrity than looks, although measuring out the distance between screws and being carefull not to sink to far created a clean look.
Speaker from outside!! Definately use the T-nuts. Be carefull when tapping the backside or female part into the baffle, not to break baffle. There is not much room between T-nut holes and speaker cut out.
Not saying this is the right way to do it, as I have only built one of these things. But it worked.
I took my time and am really happy with the results, it sounds great!
Dietz Cabinets.
104field wrote:I took my time and am really happy with the results, it sounds great!
pictures?
Dietz Cabinets.
105that damned fly wrote:field wrote:I took my time and am really happy with the results, it sounds great!
pictures?
How? Got some digital images in my PC.
Dietz Cabinets.
106I already put in my two cents, but I can't recommend enough using rabbets at the corners to simplify assembly. Even with the "long open time" glue, it's a pain in the cock to get the thing squared up and clamped and using real joinery helps a lot. And screws will never pull as tight as clamps - this thing has to be airtight, remember. Doing this eliminates the need to seal the joints.
And, for those of you who aren't building shit constantly, 3/4" plywood is not 3/4" thick (it's like 23/32"). 3/4" or 1x solid wood is usually 3/4" as is MDF or particle board (not that you should even consider using either of these). I know this is pretty common knowledge, but I made the sizing mistake when I was a rookie and felt like a moron.
Oh, and now having cut myself open at least half a dozen times on our admittedly badass steel grating, I would suggest folks who value their fingers go another way. Some pro sound companies sell real steel speaker grating that isn't razor sharp; I'd start there...
Dan
And, for those of you who aren't building shit constantly, 3/4" plywood is not 3/4" thick (it's like 23/32"). 3/4" or 1x solid wood is usually 3/4" as is MDF or particle board (not that you should even consider using either of these). I know this is pretty common knowledge, but I made the sizing mistake when I was a rookie and felt like a moron.
Oh, and now having cut myself open at least half a dozen times on our admittedly badass steel grating, I would suggest folks who value their fingers go another way. Some pro sound companies sell real steel speaker grating that isn't razor sharp; I'd start there...
Dan
Dietz Cabinets.
107danmohr wrote: I can't recommend enough using rabbets at the corners to simplify assembly
Dietz Cabinets.
108mr.arrison wrote:danmohr wrote: I can't recommend enough using rabbets at the corners to simplify assembly
Ha!
Dietz Cabinets.
109The screw v. clamp debate was only re: attaching the internal cleats. Real men glue, clamp, then pin-nail the exterior corners.
The best way I've found to keep cabs square when building is to assemble the bottom corners first, then the back (which keeps everything square), then the top. Then install the cleats (bottom ones are a bit tricky, just measure carefully and screw from the bottom. Then the baffle, with t-nuts installed (you remembered to cut all the holes for handles and install insulation too, right?).
Like Dan, I have cut myself on the extruded steel grates. The 15" speaker grills are cheaper, easier to install and no-where near as dangerous. You will look like a total pussy...but hey, you get to keep your finger tips.
The best way I've found to keep cabs square when building is to assemble the bottom corners first, then the back (which keeps everything square), then the top. Then install the cleats (bottom ones are a bit tricky, just measure carefully and screw from the bottom. Then the baffle, with t-nuts installed (you remembered to cut all the holes for handles and install insulation too, right?).
Like Dan, I have cut myself on the extruded steel grates. The 15" speaker grills are cheaper, easier to install and no-where near as dangerous. You will look like a total pussy...but hey, you get to keep your finger tips.
No one is paying you to sit on that bed and cry.
Dietz Cabinets.
110field wrote:that damned fly wrote:field wrote:I took my time and am really happy with the results, it sounds great!
pictures?
How? Got some digital images in my PC.
host 'em and post 'em. in the "click reply" the Img button tells ya what to do.