Yes, what model of Eminence speakers then?
(410 and 115 "classic")

TheMilford wrote:Mose - I'll research the Eminence/EVM thing.

Thanks.
I'm guessing the Eminence Delta Pro-15A is maybe similar. Same power handling, same size voice coil, similar looking ribbed cone and sensitivity. 54 Hz -4.2 kHz frequency range so marginally less bright. But I dunno.

I'm just getting fed up with being outbid on ebay auctions for the EV. You mentioned eminence earlier in the thread so I thought you’d probably have an idea. Anyway, anything you come up with would be greatly appreciated.
M V-S

The Delta pro is mentioned as comparable on the TalkBass forum.

I'll look a little more closely on the T/S parameters.

Cheers,

Okay just a few things I'd like cleared up.

1) Other than weight issues what will sound better. MDF or Birch Plywood?

2) Will rear mounting the speaker REALLY cause any damage to it if I mount the metal grill in between the speaker and baffle?

These are the only 2 things I really need cleared up before I go a head and build one. I saw the Melvins last week and Buzzo was using one and his rig sounded amazing. Help me out!!!

andysjunkymusic wrote:Okay just a few things I'd like cleared up.

1) Other than weight issues what will sound better. MDF or Birch Plywood?

Weight isn't the only issue. Baltic Birch is stronger and lighter. MDF is "dead" but that is probably not really important for instrument amplification. Also it's important that you use Baltic Birch or some similar "void-free" plywood as standard plywoods have voids that could buzz or resonate unpredictably

2) Will rear mounting the speaker REALLY cause any damage to it if I mount the metal grill in between the speaker and baffle?

The the most important thing to consider here is that the gasket on the front of the driver is tall enough to accommodate the travel of the cone so that is doesn't hit the grill. Also front-mounting the driver is better for a number of reasons; the basket displaces less of the internal volume, you won't need to have a removable front or rear panel (more rigidity) and it will be easier to remove the grill for recording and the like.

Okay even though I'd really like to exactly copy the Dietz design for peace of mind I'll probably stick the to standard TL606 design. One last thing.

Rabbit joints or dovetail joints on the corners???

The Deitz Cab I have is made from some type of Birch plywood.

The corners are done with a rabbit.

The TL606 uses cleats instead of a rabbit.

I would not recommend a dovetail with this design... unless it's a HUGE dovetail

A box/finger joint would work well though... and you could use a simple "step-over" jig on the table saw with a dado.

Cheers,

You put the screws that hold the cleat from the inside of the cab or from the outside?

Are the new Orange 1x15 cabs this same design other than the speaker not being an actual EVM15L?

It looks the same, but looking at the EV plans, the orange cab is a tiny bit bigger.