PRF members' tech journal

81
yeah, the tolex glue has the consistency of elmers, and the last time I tried it I gave up after making a complete fucking mess out of my garage and clothes. Its only forseeable pro would be workability (and I guess the fact that it is non solvent-based and will not affect the tolex). the cons would be the lots of clamps required and the fucking mess... There has to be an optimal adhesive somewhere in between spray glue and elmers? wiring the circuit and designing the layout are by far the easy part!

PRF members' tech journal

82
japmn wrote:I just finished building the BYOC 2 Knob Bender pedal. It sounds great but I want to put a knob in the circuit that allows me to blend clean signal in to the fuzz signal. The kit also came with a LPB1 knockoff that I can use to buffer the signal. I don't really know where I need to place this in the circuit and would love it if one of you more techy types could help me out. I have a Audio taper (I think 500K) pot but if that isn't ideal, I could get another value. Schematic can be found here: http://buildyourownclone.com/esvmk2instructions.pdfThanks.I don't know about the buffer (are you talking about the confidence booster?), but for the blend knob a linear pot (any value should do) wired like this might work:Code: Select all \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_/         \|   ( )   |\         /| | | | | |[o] [o] [o] 1   2   31. input jack2. output jack3. output of volume knob

PRF members' tech journal

85
I finally got around to fixing a pair of homebrew condenser mics that I built some years ago.Here are the plans:http://web.archive.org/web/200701040043 ... 16\_1.shtmlhttp://web.archive.org/web/200612230708 ... 16\_2.shtmlThey actually sound amazing. Certainly as good as any sub $200 condenser mic, and they cost maybe $20 to build.
dontfeartheringo wrote:
FuzzBob wrote:Wait a minute... don't drums auto-relic themselves on every load-out?

I suppose that this depends on how drunk the bass player is.

PRF members' tech journal

86
zartoid wrote:After breaking my the 3-way pickup selector on a Danelectro 56 pro, I came to fit a replacement and found that Dano wire these up in a way I may never understand.The middle position has both pickups in series IIRC. It's kind of cool in some ways. But yeah, the tele switch setup should be cool too. You should find the middle position is even brighter than before.

PRF members' tech journal

87
Teapots wrote:I don't know about the buffer (are you talking about the "confidence booster"?), but for the blend knob a linear pot (any value should do) wired like this might work:Code: Select all \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_/         \|   ( )   |\         /| | | | | |[o] [o] [o] 1   2   31. input jack2. output jack3. output of volume knobI think this might actually cause the output of the guitar pickup to be loaded down; it'll end up seeing at most 100K as it gets shunted by the potentiometer of the pedal's output volume knob. Might still work though, but the guitar might become dull or weedy sounding. An active buffer/summing amp would be a neat solution.

PRF members' tech journal

88
After breaking my the 3-way pickup selector on a Danelectro 56 pro, I came to fit a replacement and found that Dano wire these up in a way I may never understand. Some of the factory wirings I tested for continuity and no electrons were flowing in any permutation. Desoldered all the pickup wires and copied a telecaster schematic, which is far more elegant to behold and seems to acheive the same thing with half the fuss.

PRF members' tech journal

89
Yep, I think you are right, although I rarely seem to use middle as I have an unexplained aversion to anything slightly humbuckerish. Swapped two guitar nuts for Graphtech Tusq nuts, one Takeharu 80s acoustic and one recent Tokai Hummingbird, definitely an improvement if only because the strings were previously sticking in both. The factory nut in the acoustic would not budge, I scored round the edges and tapped away, but it was glued on so strongly that total destruction was the only option. The (now smashed) base of the nut remained stuck and had to be chipped and filed to get down to the wood. The Tokai has a zero fret, so none of the alleged sustain qualities will manifest, but at least I can reliably use the trem again.

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