arablue wrote:hey milford, i know i should have preferences, but i dont feel like i know enough to justify my opinion (got my rusty box in january, sounds great). thankfully rodabod has clarified that to some extent. the fane knockoff is the ceramic weber thames https://taweber.powweb.com/weber/ under high powered speakers. it sounds real good with the bassman. the cab is 11 deep x 26 wide x 20 tall, i think.the tl806 does look like a good box, without being too big or heavy. but for further edification, what roles do porting and different dimensions play in making a cabinet? and what about having a cabinet tuned for a certain speaker? is that to assure that the resonant frequency of the speaker matches that of wood?edit: glad i've been updated from newbie to trollThe TL-806 would be overkill for that driver. it's heavy cab for it's size and that driver doesn't go lower than 80hz... so I would recommend something tuned to about 80hz in a larger box... what you have is probably ideal.But here's something I just calculated for you (try this):22" x 15" x 10" (internal dimensions)5" port hole cut in rear of cab. The thickness of the plywood will be the length of the port.Use 5/8" Baltic birch plywood or similar... use thin poplar 3/4" stock for cleats for front and rear baffles... try to use no cleating for the corners... instead use "rabbets" cut into the plywood for strength and gluing surface.Poly-fill to taste.Glad you are liking the Rusty!

what other issues might arise from an improper speaker/cabinet pairing, besides phase cancellation? im still curious to know how small i can make a cabinet, assuming its built well

arablue wrote:what other issues might arise from an improper speaker/cabinet pairing, besides phase cancellation? im still curious to know how small i can make a cabinet, assuming its built welli'm not so sure it'd be 'phase cancellation' with a 112.. moreso that the boxes port dimensions wouldn't reinforce the driver's bottom end properly.basically-- if they don't match up so well-- you end up with a woofy cabinet. typically-- at least in my experience- you can't just chuck any speaker in a ported cab because if in free air a speaker creates a lot of bass (which usually means it has a pretty big excursion)-- it'll OVER generate bass into the box-- and make it fart out. 806s seem to prefer a pretty efficent speaker with a smaller excursion (most times hand in hand with a driver though), a stiff suspension, and a pretty hefty magnet. look up the T/S parameters of an EVM though, and you'll be fairly close to the mark... unfortunately, good luck extrapolating that vs. celestion drivers.. closest i came is with a CL80. no idea about jensens.. but emi's got a couple, and of course.. well .. there's the EVM.insofar as problems beyond that.. theres theoretically the chance of 'overexcursion'.. but i've never seen any speaker outright 'blow up' in a ported box... but i reckon its possible under low enough tones and enough voltage across the thing.i wouldn't go TOO small or you get shitty boxy sound thats just ungratifying. i've heard some great low volume small cabs built with 8 drivers-- but they're not super useful LIVE.

whats excursion, in the context of a driver?

arablue wrote:whats excursion, in the context of a driver?http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Excursion\_%28audio%29

vogelscheuche wrote:arablue wrote: unfortunately, good luck extrapolating that vs. celestion drivers.. closest i came is with a CL80. no idea about jensens.. but emi's got a couple, and of course.. well .. there's the EVM.insofar as problems beyond that.. theres theoretically the chance of 'overexcursion'.. but i've never seen any speaker outright 'blow up' in a ported box... but i reckon its possible under low enough tones and enough voltage across the thing.The 55hz Celestion 30 is a pretty good match... not sure if they make a current version of this but Weber does... it's called the 1230-55EVMs, I would say have pretty "standard" excursion when compared to say comparable Eminence models.The TL cabs are just not tuned very low... either right at or just above fs... the modern practice is to push the fs of the box a little lower... as most modern speakers can "take it"

TheMilford wrote:vogelscheuche wrote:arablue wrote: unfortunately, good luck extrapolating that vs. celestion drivers.. closest i came is with a CL80. no idea about jensens.. but emi's got a couple, and of course.. well .. there's the EVM.insofar as problems beyond that.. theres theoretically the chance of 'overexcursion'.. but i've never seen any speaker outright 'blow up' in a ported box... but i reckon its possible under low enough tones and enough voltage across the thing.The 55hz Celestion 30 is a pretty good match... not sure if they make a current version of this but Weber does... it's called the 1230-55EVMs, I would say have pretty standard excursion when compared to say comparable Eminence models.The TL cabs are just not tuned very low... either right at or just above fs... the modern practice is to push the fs of the box a little lower... as most modern speakers can take iti tried the higher Fs H30, and man, it did NOT sound right. blurty and woofy-- but i didn't try the 55hz model. it's a drag too.. i love that speaker!

Ported cabs need to be matched to the speaker, as others have mentioned. Not everyone likes them for guitar, so I would audition one in person before deciding, and you'd need an EV-like speaker if you went with a Thiele cab.The dimensions of your current cab seem typical for open backed. If it were closed, the height and width would be fine, but you would want 12-14" depth.You could try jamming it full of sound insulation batting, if it is closed backed. It probably won't help much, but it could make some difference.

What kind of wood do you prefer for building open back guitar cabinets?I have a 1960 Gibson GA-19RVT that was cut into a head too small to accompany the reverb tank and wiring. The drummer in my band builds drums and is really handy with tools, but we need a little direction to make a new 1x12 combo cabinet. I guess we could base the size off of a blackface Deluxe Reverb but would prefer a slightly oversized cabinet similar to this 1x12 open-back Avatar I have, but with extra space if any is needed for the reverb tank at the bottom. We will also try to figure out a way to mount the chassis more efficiently so it isn t so much trouble to remove it.