benadrian wrote:Sounds about right. Nate, you won this round, and that dude and his tech lost for sure.And we all learned a valuable lesson about fuse type abbreviations. Thank you!

Orange TH30:Got this cheap, sold as "no output." The first thing I noticed was that the HT fuse was blown. Also, it was a 500 mA fast-blo, instead of a slow-blo. I threw a 1 A in there just to see if I got output, and it worked fine. The tubes all check out good on my tube tester. I may just pump some white noise through it into a dummy load on the bench and see if it does anything crazy, but I think this may just be a case of the wrong fuse being used. I've got the proper fuses on the way.The seller said that he had his tech look at it and he couldn't figure out what was wrong.

benadrian wrote:I seem to remember many HT fuses specifying fast blow, with the mains specifying slow blow.Either way, fantastic score.This one specifically says T 500mA (t = time delay).Here's what I think might have happened: The original output tubes were on their last legs and blew the original T 500 mA fuse. Dude took it to his tech, who put new output tubes in there and a F 500 mA fuse (F = fast-blo). It worked fine for a while, but eventually the F 500 mA fuse blew due to normal inrush current, and his "tech" didn't know the difference between fuse types, so he thought it was fried.

Orange TH30 (cont.):Ran white noise at max volume for about 30 minutes into a 8 ohm resistor (a giant one mounted to a heatsink). Output tubes were cooking, but the new T 500 mA fuse never blew. Even tapped on the tubes and wiggled them in their sockets and switched back and forth from standby a bunch of times. I'm going to call this one done. Cheapest fix ever.It's up on CL now: https://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/msg/6168878810.html

Sunn Concert Lead(s) (cont.):Finally got the second one buttoned up last night.Output noise issue on the bottom one solved. Probably based on a couple of factors:1) Dirty circuit breaker contacts. Some contact cleaner helped.2) Dirty trimpot on the output PCB. It's an open-frame pot, and I guess it's used for symmetry adjustment of the output signal? It's not a traditional bias pot, that's for sure. Either way, cleaning helped.Had to resolder a broken wire in the original reverb tank. Still not sure if I'm going to keep both of these. I may sell the bottom one with all of the replacement cosmetic parts (knobs, power switch, handle). Actually, I should probably swap reverb tanks so that one is mostly original.

Ampeg SVT-IIP (cont.):I had to get a Carnhill toroidal transformer shipped from the UK, but it was the smallest thing I could find that would do the B+ and heater voltages and didn't cost over $50. I also put in a smaller 2x12V toroidal transformer in there to get the bipolar rails for the opamps. Luckily there was enough clearance inside that I won't have to cut the PCB. The LM7908 -8 VDC regulator is bad, so I'm going to replace them both with whatever I have in my stash.

I have one of those Peaveys and it's a pretty awesome cab all things considered.

Picked up a shallow Peavey 215 cab with an original square back Eminence and some rando crap car audio subwoofer in it. The plan is to upgrade the drivers, generally making sure the cab is up to the task of handling more power, etc. Yes, it was pre-blasted with cat piss. Just like every other goddamn amp/cab on craigslist. I am going with a pair of Faital 15PR400's. I spent some time dicking around in WinISD Pro and found that it should all work pretty well tuned to 40Hz. The ports for each chamber have to be lengthened, and the easiest/most effective thing I can think of is to block them off with a piece of thin wood/veneer or something similar, then install a standard off the shelf round port.

Snagged a broken dbx 161 on reverb for $150. It's basically the same as the famous 160 VU, but with unbalanced I/O. Even uses the same PCB. I was hoping that the meter worked so I could drop it in my 165A that has a broken meter, but the meter was DOA. Pretty common with these things (hence the broken one on my 165A), and replacements and/or rebuilds are way too expensive to make sense.It's missing the top and bottom panels, so I'm going to salvage some from a dbx 122 that I got for $30. Should be a drop-in replacement. It did come with the rack ears though.It was intermittently compressing signals, depending on where I flexed the PCB. I traced it down to the RMS detector module (that silver box with the 208 sticker), so I had to remove it from the PCB, remove the shielding can and reflow most of the solder points on its internal PCB. Dropped it back in and it worked. Replaced all the electrolytic capacitors for good measure, and ran through the calibration procedure.

weezy wrote:Pretty much finished the Peavey 215 cab. This looks fantastic. Salut!