Sound Proofing

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catwoman wrote:blue\_thunder wrote:If you can get the okay from your landlord, the best solution would be to pull off the existing drywall, fill the wall with insulation, reinstall drywall, tape the joints, texture the wall, and paint. For extra isolation, apply 2 layers of drywall before taping the joints. If the door to your room is hollow, replace it will a solid core door.What about sprayed in, or sprayed on, foam insulation?They use it a lot here (US) as a retrofit insulation solution, and I'd imagine there would be something similar there. Or even blown in cellulose insulation? Don't know if it would be cheaper or easier than pulling one side of the drywall and insulating, but it would be less work.I also like the white noise idea, and be sure you don't have any furniture pressed up against the wall that you actually use (the bed, for example). An offset of an inch even, would keep some sounds isolated.Spray foam will be just as much work, as you'll still have to rip down the walls so it can be applied directly to the interior wall. It's also more than double the expense of standard insulation (YMMV -- shit has become very popular north of the border and usually has to be installed professionally. Even a DIY kit will run you ~$500). Depending on your walls, blown-in might work, but I don't know the costs involved. Usually involves a pro with a truck, a big-ass compressor and a bunch of hose.

Sound Proofing

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bumpBeen reading a lot on this subject.My basement will become the bands rehearsal space in 2 months. The basement is exposed in a multi-level home built into a hill. The space has:one wall that is interior (half block, half studded on top, adjacent to next level up) one wall that steps down in foundation (partially exposed) with a window (block 12" wide w, 2x6 studding over it)one wall completely studded (exposed wall/ with window)and a divider wall that I will build w/ door (gonna get solid core steel door)So my dilemma is to isolate the room via mass/ air/ mass I would have to do some crazy framing around the windows and half walls, or frame over windows...would creating a dropped ceiling and leafed interior wall have any benefit if I don't follow thru with that same thing on the walls with the windows? The interior wall and ceiling are opposite living quarters... I live in the country so noise funneled away from the living quarters would go towards farm fields, don't care.I want to keep the windows if possible, so maybe just dbl drywall with some green glue in between on those walls?I don't want to make this a huge project, but certainly want to reduce the volume getting to the rest of the house.Last thing I want to do is invest a bunch of time and money and it doesn't help.Thoughts?
http://www.myspace.com/thecustomarysilence

Sound Proofing

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Bumping due to more domestic grist, as an alternative to the post while you are depressed thread or starting one on sensitivity to noise which I've been threatening for months. Wanting to decrease the everyday noise coming from my neighbours in one room a little bit and was planning on buying a readymade panel of acoustic wool and plasterboard to attach to the party wall, but I'm wondering if it'll be effective as I don't know if it's solid brick or breeze block, so flanking etc. Should I try to find out first or just motor on with it? Any way to find out without stripping everything off the wall?

Sound Proofing

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japmn wrote:Dry wall > Pink fiberglass > Dry wall.I know this is an old post, but don't do this. ^ It's a triple leaf structure.You would be better off to use the same materials and do: drywall->dry wall-> pink fiberglass->foundation.http://www.greengluecompany.com/sites/d ... Effect.pdf

Sound Proofing

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BusBus wrote:japmn wrote:Dry wall > Pink fiberglass > Dry wall.I know this is an old post, but don't do this. ^ It's a triple leaf structure.You would be better off to use the same materials and do: drywall->dry wall-> pink fiberglass->foundation.http://www.greengluecompany.com/sites/d ... Effect.pdfI'm not going to re-read the whole thread, but what you're saying is assuming there is a foundation, or another wall other than the two walls mentioned. In other words, if you were to create better isolation between the walls of your apartment, what japmn wrote would make sense.

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Sorry to resurrect a dead thread but:How do you resolve windows and doors in a double wall situations? How do you hide the the framing and insulation around the windows and doors if there is a gap between the two layers?I assume you don't want to cover the gap with the drywall because that would couple the two layers of wall...

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