Redline wrote:The amp should never be wider that the speakers underneath because that's what zom zom said and he was right.I agree with Zom that it looks dumb. BUT I get it. Though I'm also a proponent of use what you've got in the most efficient way you can. So, I'm torn. Aesthetically it sucks though.

Are those John Reis Marshalls? Those poor, poor amplifiers...

I'm upgrading and rebuilding my woodshop, I will be making TL cabs again... including some personal designs.

TheMilford wrote:I'm upgrading and rebuilding my woodshop, I will be making TL cabs again... including some personal designs.I have been looking for a good reason to get rid of my 4x12 for a while, and this seems like the right one.

brephophagist wrote:TheMilford wrote:I'm upgrading and rebuilding my woodshop, I will be making TL cabs again... including some personal designs.I have been looking for a good reason to get rid of my 4x12 for a while, and this seems like the right one.What are you looking to do? single 12 cabs? 15" cabs?

TheMilford wrote:What are you looking to do? single 12 cabs? 15 cabs?Ideal world: one guitar cab, one bass cab. Probably 12 and 15 respectively, but I'm open to ideas, as is my back. Bass cab would be used with either a 67 Bassman or a 400RB (with Rusty of course). Guitar cab would be used with either of those same two amps, or a Sunn Beta.

Any further comments on insulation? I'm finishing up some Tl606s, to play bass & synth out of I like the idea of 'honk' mentioned here but maybe overall its too muchviewtopic.php?f=5&t=44336

I would at the minimum use R13 on all of the inside walls, Including covering the port top but not blocking the port. I use regular fiberglass insulation as it sounds best. Get the stuff that comes without paper backing and use 3M 77 adhesive to attach. You can use thicker if it's still too midrangey. Also, try the port-cover, step-down mode.

TylerSavage wrote:TheMilford wrote:I would at the minimum use R13 on all of the inside walls, Including covering the port top but not blocking the port. I use regular fiberglass insulation as it sounds best. Get the stuff that comes without paper backing and use 3M 77 adhesive to attach. You can use thicker if it's still too midrangey. Also, try the port-cover, step-down mode.Cool, thanks for the tips - I'll give it a whirl without and then try your suggestionsYou can easily do a dry run without adhesive to dial in the amount of tuning.

TheMilford wrote:I would at the minimum use R13 on all of the inside walls, Including covering the port top but not blocking the port. I use regular fiberglass insulation as it sounds best. Get the stuff that comes without paper backing and use 3M 77 adhesive to attach. You can use thicker if it's still too midrangey. Also, try the port-cover, step-down mode.Cool, thanks for the tips - I'll give it a whirl without and then try your suggestions