I I have a trick I like for iso head headphones on a budget that I think works better than most anything else, but people probably dont agree. I use a decent sounding pair of ear buds. The kind that have the spongy ear piece that lets them kinda seal in tight, and I put those industrial ear protection muffs on over them. They stay on, You get almost total isolation, you actually don't have to supply a ton of volume to the earphones because you have so much isolation both from the plug and the muffs, and the whole thing can be done for probably less than 30-40 bones.Better for drummers than anything Ive tried, and if you buy a little bluetooth transmitter to plug into your mixer or daw, completely wireless. https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Headphone-Earbuds-Sweatproof-Wireless/dp/B07MY3Z5JH/ref=sr\_1\_15?crid=1Z08R9RYSBM6M&keywords=bluetooth+wired+earphones&qid=1551722523&s=gateway&sprefix=bluetooth+wired%2Caps%2C416&sr=8-15https://www.amazon.com/HearTek-Adjustable-Canceling-Protection-Shooting/dp/B01K4QSZII/ref=sr\_1\_23?keywords=protection+ear&qid=1551722671&s=gateway&sr=8-23https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B075K61NR1/ref=sr\_1\_9?keywords=bluetooth+transmitter&qid=1551722733&s=gateway&sr=8-9

154 wrote:..good headphones for recording to a click with. Isolation is key, bonus points if they sound pretty good too. Would spend $100-ish if they meet that criteria.I asked a very similar question on FB the other day and got responses mainly from PRF types. A lot of people went to bat for Sony MDR-7506s, one person for Audio-Technica M40X/M50Xs, and one for Sennheiser HD598Cs.

garthplinko wrote:japmn wrote:I I have a trick I like for iso head headphones on a budget that I think works better than most anything else, but people probably dont agree. I use a decent sounding pair of ear buds. The kind that have the spongy ear piece that lets them kinda seal in tight, and I put those industrial ear protection muffs on over them. They stay on, You get almost total isolation, you actually don't have to supply a ton of volume to the earphones because you have so much isolation both from the plug and the muffs, and the whole thing can be done for probably less than 30-40 bones.+1 I've done this last few times I've recorded and REALLY like it. I plan to continue recording all my drums this way for the forseable future. But instead of cheapies, I was using Shure SE215 (which are cheap as far as in-ears go I guess? Astounding how much you can spend on these). If you're doing just a click, the main thing is that they fit snug I would think and could probably go much cheaper.I haven't tried bluetooth because I figured the latency would be a non-starter...but w/ a click I guess it doesn't matter if it comes in late if it's not live, just nudge it back.I have also done this and love it. I have the vic firth ones as well, but it doesn't take long for them to hurt and they sound like shit. Garth, how's the isolation with the SE215? I noticed you were using them for the Antlercat set at TS. I want in-ears (and for them to be very easy for a house engineer to deal with) so very badly.

Good grief, check back in when you ask a question, pal.garthplinko wrote:Not an expert, but I thought that audiophile folks really focus on ext power supplies as being upgrades to systems throughout the audio chain. If the BT receiver is otherwise good overall, might be able to find a higher-quality third-party power supply and see if that works? Of course, you might just be putting perfume on a pig, but...ldopa\_chicago wrote:evanrowe wrote:When the recently-purchased one is turned off, the GD POS power supply howls throughout the 10-16k range.I agree with Garth.What kind of power supply are we talking? There are many, many terrible power supplies out there and it may be possible to just replace this one.Yes! I've tried several different 5V transformers to no avail; it seems the coil whine (I think that's what's happening?) is coming from inside the unit. So I guess it's likely a function of not spending enough on the thing. I'm having to purchase one at work that needs to be PRO š¡GEAR (to match the attitude), so will be finding out what the jump from ~$40 to ~$180 gets you.Major wrote:evanrowe wrote:Have thought about simply replacing the very old and unremarkable receiver/amp with one having BT built in, but was hoping to put that off for a bit.I bought this on a whim a few months ago because I desperately needed a new integrated amp that doesn't take up a lot of real estate. I didn't even care about the Bluetooth capability, but I use it a lot more than I expected.I know you said you're not really in the market for that much of an upgrade, but when you are, I highly recommend it.https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-MAIA-BL ... B00MA6NUAEThanks! We're pretty much heating the living room with the ~20-yr-old Denon thing, so will keep this in mind!

evanrowe wrote:Garth, how's the isolation with the SE215? I noticed you were using them for the Antlercat set at TS. I want in-ears (and for them to be very easy for a house engineer to deal with) so very badly.I Am Not Forum Member Garth, but I use the 215s as my commuting earbuds and they work great for that! I ended up getting some rubber tips that fit my ears better, but the stock ones were fine for a couple of years. I use mine virtually every day and coil 'em up and put them in my bag or coat pocket and they've held up great.

tallchris wrote:evanrowe wrote:Garth, how's the isolation with the SE215? I noticed you were using them for the Antlercat set at TS. I want in-ears (and for them to be very easy for a house engineer to deal with) so very badly.I Am Not Forum Member Garth, but I use the 215s as my commuting earbuds and they work great for that! I ended up getting some rubber tips that fit my ears better, but the stock ones were fine for a couple of years. I use mine virtually every day and coil 'em up and put them in my bag or coat pocket and they've held up great.Same ^ I would buy these earbuds again in a heart beat. They were a little weird to put on at first but once you figure it out it s a breeze.

....speaker cab for a blackface Bandmaster. More portable than the matching 2x12 behemoth. Clean tones and pedals.(examples linked below)

llllllllllllllllllllllll wrote:tallchris wrote:evanrowe wrote:Garth, how's the isolation with the SE215? I noticed you were using them for the Antlercat set at TS. I want in-ears (and for them to be very easy for a house engineer to deal with) so very badly.I Am Not Forum Member Garth, but I use the 215s as my commuting earbuds and they work great for that! I ended up getting some rubber tips that fit my ears better, but the stock ones were fine for a couple of years. I use mine virtually every day and coil 'em up and put them in my bag or coat pocket and they've held up great.Same ^ I would buy these earbuds again in a heart beat. They were a little weird to put on at first but once you figure it out it s a breeze.Excellent, thanks!

I think vintage 30s are 60 watts. There s a thread on here about using the same speakers for both guitar and bass.

this might be better off in the tech questions, but...i need speakers for my two music man cabinets. one is a 2x12, one is a 1x15. same enclosures. i have one celestion vintage 30 (16ohm). i want to be able to use either a music man hd150 or a blackface bassman with one or both cabinets, ideally for either bass or guitar.i assume a 'vintage 30' is 30 watts? so if i get a second i can get to 60 watts and 8 ohm, right? so nothing i have to worry about with the bassman, but with the 150, i could probably blow them. for the 15, i probably want 8 ohms, to match the 2x12, yes? the music man is switchable between 4 and 8 ohms, so that works out. is this asking for too much versatility out of a speaker? and should i just forget about the vintage 30 and get higher rate speakers?