mrcancelled wrote:For a while I've been having an issue with getting sound from my left speaker working when playing records, and at this point I have no idea what's going wrong. It will sometimes work fine for a few minutes and then sort of fizzle out. No jiggling of any of the cables (RCA or speaker cables) makes any difference. I've tried out two different record players and I've tried out two different stereos, I've used a phono preamp and I've tried going direct using the turntables' preamps, swapped out the RCA cables with new ones. Inspected both cartridges/styluses, didn't notice anything loose or off. The left speaker works totally fine if I'm listening to CDs, radio, through a Bluetooth adapter, etc. It's only with records. And if, using either stereo's second set of speaker outputs, I plug the left speaker's cables in the second speaker inputs right channel... it plays the right channel through the left speaker just fine. Any ideas? The next thing I'll try will be just swapping out the speaker cables completely, mainly for lack of a better idea. But I'm completely at a loss now that I've tested switching out most of the equipment, and because the left speaker works with all other types of inputs.I am at a loss given that your troubleshooting sounds pretty thorough. The only thing I can think of is some kind of tracking error due to incorrect stylus mounting or alignment. If there is a store that specializes in turntables and can check your mounting and alignment, as well as tracking force, anti skid settings, and the general health of your cartridge and stylus, that would be where I would put my money.

For a while I've been having an issue with getting sound from my left speaker working when playing records, and at this point I have no idea what's going wrong. It will sometimes work fine for a few minutes and then sort of fizzle out. No jiggling of any of the cables (RCA or speaker cables) makes any difference. I've tried out two different record players and I've tried out two different stereos, I've used a phono preamp and I've tried going direct using the turntables' preamps, swapped out the RCA cables with new ones. Inspected both cartridges/styluses, didn't notice anything loose or off. The left speaker works totally fine if I'm listening to CDs, radio, through a Bluetooth adapter, etc. It's only with records. And if, using either stereo's second set of speaker outputs, I plug the left speaker's cables in the second speaker inputs right channel... it plays the right channel through the left speaker just fine. Any ideas? The next thing I'll try will be just swapping out the speaker cables completely, mainly for lack of a better idea. But I'm completely at a loss now that I've tested switching out most of the equipment, and because the left speaker works with all other types of inputs.

endofanera wrote:mrcancelled wrote:For a while I've been having an issue with getting sound from my left speaker working when playing records, and at this point I have no idea what's going wrong. It will sometimes work fine for a few minutes and then sort of fizzle out. No jiggling of any of the cables (RCA or speaker cables) makes any difference. I've tried out two different record players and I've tried out two different stereos, I've used a phono preamp and I've tried going direct using the turntables' preamps, swapped out the RCA cables with new ones. Inspected both cartridges/styluses, didn't notice anything loose or off. The left speaker works totally fine if I'm listening to CDs, radio, through a Bluetooth adapter, etc. It's only with records. And if, using either stereo's second set of speaker outputs, I plug the left speaker's cables in the second speaker inputs right channel... it plays the right channel through the left speaker just fine. Any ideas? The next thing I'll try will be just swapping out the speaker cables completely, mainly for lack of a better idea. But I'm completely at a loss now that I've tested switching out most of the equipment, and because the left speaker works with all other types of inputs.I am at a loss given that your troubleshooting sounds pretty thorough. The only thing I can think of is some kind of tracking error due to incorrect stylus mounting or alignment. If there is a store that specializes in turntables and can check your mounting and alignment, as well as tracking force, anti skid settings, and the general health of your cartridge and stylus, that would be where I would put my money.Today I removed the stylus of my newer turntable and sort of ensured the little wires were all firmly connected, blew on it to try and remove any kind of dust build up, and reconnected it, and it's working now! I didn't really do anything differently than what I'd done before but perhaps something was loose that I didn't notice. But this is something I thought I've fixed before only to have the problem recur a couple of days later. Hopefully that won't be the case this time but if so I'll definitely be taking your advice and have someone look at the tables. Thanks for the reply!

You could also put in a DPDT switch and run the LED side with a battery. Not ideal since batteries suck, but you wouldn t have to change anything on the amp.It might work to just put an LED in series with the shunt to ground, but the current might not be enough for the LED to be very bright.

been wondering if there's a way to use the boost foot switch in a Traynor TS 50 to also switch an LED. boost on, LED on. first I thought it should work feeding the LED from the +15V rail and then the footswitch connects to LED to ground. did not work, the boost and LED are on all the time. I actually can reverse the LED and feed it from the negative voltage of the 47K resistor, but then the LED is on when the boost is off. it would work with a 2pdt switch, but I don't need a boost switch on the frontpannel, just that simple shorting switch via jack connector on the back. is there any way to get an LED working this way?

Dr Tony Balls wrote:Change the boost footswitch jack to a TRS (stereo) jack, use a stereo cable and replace the switch in the footswitch with a DPDT. One side of the switch switches the boost on or off like usual, the other side switches the LED ground on/off. Does that work?pretty sure that this would work! I actually thought about that too. my problem is that I'm using a diy switch/looper box with 2 fx loops, one switch for the rack tuner and one switch for the boost. I run the signal and the switches through a 6 pin XLR to the amp. so I would actually need one more pin to switch the LED ground separately. and in the end, I do have an LED on the switch box that indicates that the boost is on. but yeah, a stereo jack would work, thanks for the suggestion!

bassdriver wrote:been wondering if there's a way to use the boost foot switch in a Traynor TS 50 to also switch an LED. boost on, LED on. first I thought it should work feeding the LED from the +15V rail and then the footswitch connects to LED to ground. did not work, the boost and LED are on all the time. I actually can reverse the LED and feed it from the negative voltage of the 47K resistor, but then the LED is on when the boost is off. it would work with a 2pdt switch, but I don't need a boost switch on the frontpannel, just that simple shorting switch via jack connector on the back. is there any way to get an LED working this way?Change the boost footswitch jack to a TRS (stereo) jack, use a stereo cable and replace the switch in the footswitch with a DPDT. One side of the switch switches the boost on or off like usual, the other side switches the LED ground on/off. Does that work?

Adam P wrote:You could also put in a DPDT switch and run the LED side with a battery. Not ideal since batteries suck, but you wouldn t have to change anything on the amp.It might work to just put an LED in series with the shunt to ground, but the current might not be enough for the LED to be very bright.oh, I'm not moding an amp, I'm tinkering around with making my own TS 50 preamp. Kind of checking out the possibilities before I order the front pannel.

Maybe put it on its side? Non-Fender vintage American amps are usually not designed for frequent service. Sunns with their million point grounding scheme, Ampegs with their sprung sheet metal, Gibsons with their point to point clusters of components.

Trying to make sense of this in my headHere is the cabinet of a Gibson GA-40. Notice the two screws that hold in the chassis of the amp from the topHere is a closeup of one of the screws from the inside of the chassis Why design an amp like this that has to be put together and taken apart with two sets of hands? Maybe I m missing something, but I don t understand how you d put this back together by yourself. You d need someone to hold the chassis up, then another set of hands to work the nut and screw. Am I missing a trick here or something?