Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

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Nate Dort wrote: Tue Nov 09, 2021 1:10 pm It looks like P1 and P2 are setting the bias point of the output circuit so that it runs in its linear region. You would adjust those for minimum distortion at the output.

Yes, negative feedback is through the other transforming winding and R37.

MJE370 are rated for 25W, so they can get warm without a problem.
thanks a lot Nate! since I don’t have the tools to measure THD I will simply try to set all voltages according to the schematic. it’s a little harder to see how P1 and P2 interact with those 25 turns Bourns trimpots than it was with the original 1 turn pots.
here’s a picture of the prototype. added relay switched phantom power and polarity reverse. always exciting to figure that PCB’s actually work the way they should.

Image

Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

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twelvepoint wrote: Tue Nov 09, 2021 1:33 pm FM Bassdriver has such great work (and was kind enough last year to help me build my own 169 clone!) and I look forward to seeing this project.
cheers twelvepoint. still super happy that this turned out so well for you. in the meantime I sold one unit to a studio in Toronto. the guy actually once owned a Studer 169 console. so I asked him how the clone compares to the original.

"I think I like this 169 better than my vintage. It’s more open sounding, and the eq seems smoother, very hard to get a bad sound with.
Used it on some over heads with my Soyuz pencils this afternoon got one of the better over head sounds I’ve gotten recently. World clas pre amp you’ve built. I’d buy another one for sure.“

ha, I think we got ourselves some nice mic preamps ;-)

Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

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bassdriver wrote: Wed Nov 10, 2021 2:07 pm
twelvepoint wrote: Tue Nov 09, 2021 1:33 pm FM Bassdriver has such great work (and was kind enough last year to help me build my own 169 clone!) and I look forward to seeing this project.
cheers twelvepoint. still super happy that this turned out so well for you. in the meantime I sold one unit to a studio in Toronto. the guy actually once owned a Studer 169 console. so I asked him how the clone compares to the original.

"I think I like this 169 better than my vintage. It’s more open sounding, and the eq seems smoother, very hard to get a bad sound with.
Used it on some over heads with my Soyuz pencils this afternoon got one of the better over head sounds I’ve gotten recently. World clas pre amp you’ve built. I’d buy another one for sure.“

ha, I think we got ourselves some nice mic preamps ;-)
Mine is being used for drum overheads too. In my case it's with Oktava MC012 mics with omni capsules and a Jecklin disc. Love it!

One small question is the pushbutton +48 and Phase invert switches don't always "catch" and I have to push them a few times. Does this seem familiar, and can I remedy it? For others playing along at home, these switches are lighted pushbuttons, doing some magic that switches relays. Note that this is only a small inconvenience, but I'd address it if anyone has any thoughts, possibly a capacitor value is off?
he/him/his

www.bostontypewriterorchestra.com

Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

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Leeplusplus wrote: Wed Nov 10, 2021 10:40 am The buzzer box in my hallway for the front door of my building is insanely loud. I need it 50% quieter. Do I cram dampening materials in there? Replace the speaker?
https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions ... d-doorbell

Personally, I wouldn't tape over the front like some of these suggest. But if you can get it off easily, I'd try putting some sort of insert between the speaker and the panel it's mounted to. Try felt. Cardboard. You get the idea.

The resistor idea is a good one, but I'd be scared of making the little ancient amp work too hard and stop working altogether.

EDIT

Upon closer inspection, you may not have room to do that because the speaker might not be crewed in. This one has plastic tabs melted to hold it in place.
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Cool sticker location opportunity?
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Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

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Ok so I know guitar wiring and thats about it. I like the way the spacing is between the frets on a Les Paul standard, more room for fingers than a strat. Is there any company that has this "space" on a guitar that is lighter weight wise then a Les Paul? Jazzmaster?
"There's a felling I get when I look to the west"
"When the meaningful words. When they cease to function. When there's nothing to say."

Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

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Dr Tony Balls wrote: Thu Nov 11, 2021 9:05 am
Mickey242 wrote: Wed Nov 10, 2021 11:10 pm more room for fingers than a strat
Incorrect. Gibson guitars are 24.75" scale length (nut to bridge) and many Fender guitars, including Strats, have a scale length of 25.5". Longer scale length means the fret spacing is gonna be a little bit wider.
Ditto. Mickey242, you've got that backwards.

BUT, maybe what you like is the flatter fretboard and/or bigger frets on a Gibson. If you want a lighter guitar with a more Gibson like neck you should try a Fender/Squier Toronado or Cyclone. They both have 24.75" scale length and a 9.5" radius. Unfortunately both of these currently have vintage style Fender frets. Can't remember what the old Fender Toronados had, but I think they were medium jumbo.

Something like this:
https://www.chicagomusicexchange.com/pr ... ue-1160502

Or just get a Les Paul Special.
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