twelvepoint wrote: Wed Nov 10, 2021 2:36 pm

bassdriver wrote: Wed Nov 10, 2021 2:07 pm

twelvepoint wrote: Tue Nov 09, 2021 1:33 pm FM Bassdriver has such great work (and was kind enough last year to help me build my own 169 clone!) and I look forward to seeing this project.

cheers twelvepoint. still super happy that this turned out so well for you. in the meantime I sold one unit to a studio in Toronto. the guy actually once owned a Studer 169 console. so I asked him how the clone compares to the original.

"I think I like this 169 better than my vintage. It’s more open sounding, and the eq seems smoother, very hard to get a bad sound with.
Used it on some over heads with my Soyuz pencils this afternoon got one of the better over head sounds I’ve gotten recently. World clas pre amp you’ve built. I’d buy another one for sure.“

ha, I think we got ourselves some nice mic preamps

Mine is being used for drum overheads too. In my case it's with Oktava MC012 mics with omni capsules and a Jecklin disc. Love it!

One small question is the pushbutton +48 and Phase invert switches don't always "catch" and I have to push them a few times. Does this seem familiar, and can I remedy it? For others playing along at home, these switches are lighted pushbuttons, doing some magic that switches relays. Note that this is only a small inconvenience, but I'd address it if anyone has any thoughts, possibly a capacitor value is off?

bassdriver wrote: Thu Nov 11, 2021 12:32 pm

twelvepoint wrote: Wed Nov 10, 2021 2:36 pm One small question is the pushbutton +48 and Phase invert switches don't always "catch" and I have to push them a few times. Does this seem familiar, and can I remedy it? For others playing along at home, these switches are lighted pushbuttons, doing some magic that switches relays. Note that this is only a small inconvenience, but I'd address it if anyone has any thoughts, possibly a capacitor value is off?

there’s definitely something wrong. those are non latching switches, they simply switch by closing the contacts. you might want to check them with your multimeter continuity test. remember the short wire and the opposite pin are connected to ground and voltage for the light, the 2 other pins should short together when you push the button. did I include the CD40107BE ICs or did you order them yourself? once in a while there’s a bad one, but that’s one out of fifty or less. I use those relays a lot and never had any issues. I can send you new switches if those are the problem. did I send you 4 red ones or 2 green and 2 red switches?

tommy wrote: Thu Nov 11, 2021 10:20 am

Dr Tony Balls wrote: Thu Nov 11, 2021 9:05 am

Mickey242 wrote: Wed Nov 10, 2021 11:10 pm more room for fingers than a strat

Incorrect. Gibson guitars are 24.75" scale length (nut to bridge) and many Fender guitars, including Strats, have a scale length of 25.5". Longer scale length means the fret spacing is gonna be a little bit wider.

Ditto. Mickey242, you've got that backwards.

BUT, maybe what you like is the flatter fretboard and/or bigger frets on a Gibson. If you want a lighter guitar with a more Gibson like neck you should try a Fender/Squier Toronado or Cyclone. They both have 24.75" scale length and a 9.5" radius. Unfortunately both of these currently have vintage style Fender frets. Can't remember what the old Fender Toronados had, but I think they were medium jumbo.

Something like this:
https://www.chicagomusicexchange.com/pr ... ue-1160502

Or just get a Les Paul Special.

twelvepoint wrote: Thu Nov 11, 2021 1:33 pm

bassdriver wrote: Thu Nov 11, 2021 12:32 pm

twelvepoint wrote: Wed Nov 10, 2021 2:36 pm One small question is the pushbutton +48 and Phase invert switches don't always "catch" and I have to push them a few times. Does this seem familiar, and can I remedy it? For others playing along at home, these switches are lighted pushbuttons, doing some magic that switches relays. Note that this is only a small inconvenience, but I'd address it if anyone has any thoughts, possibly a capacitor value is off?

there’s definitely something wrong. those are non latching switches, they simply switch by closing the contacts. you might want to check them with your multimeter continuity test. remember the short wire and the opposite pin are connected to ground and voltage for the light, the 2 other pins should short together when you push the button. did I include the CD40107BE ICs or did you order them yourself? once in a while there’s a bad one, but that’s one out of fifty or less. I use those relays a lot and never had any issues. I can send you new switches if those are the problem. did I send you 4 red ones or 2 green and 2 red switches?

It's gotta be a mistake on my end. I'll pull it out of the rack when I have a little time and double check. I can say right now that all 4 are the red switches. I must have done something dumb with the connectors. I'm glad they normally work well!

Leeplusplus wrote: Fri Nov 12, 2021 11:23 pm Why are these speakers like this?!

Wood Goblin wrote: Sun Nov 14, 2021 11:42 am Seeking advice on recording software.

Up until recently, my son had been using Audacity, as it was free, accepted plugins well, and was intuitive. For whatever reason, it stopped working, but there was also limited room to grow with it.

penningtron wrote: Sun Nov 14, 2021 12:17 pm

Wood Goblin wrote: Sun Nov 14, 2021 11:42 am Seeking advice on recording software.

Up until recently, my son had been using Audacity, as it was free, accepted plugins well, and was intuitive. For whatever reason, it stopped working, but there was also limited room to grow with it.

The 'free trial' (never expires) version of Cockos Reaper is the full software (albeit with a 5 second "to purchase a license" prompt at the beginning), and if you do decide to buy the non-professional license it's around $100.

Best DAW ever, I've been using it for about 11 years now.