tallchris wrote: Sun Apr 10, 2022 10:25 pm Traynor TS-25b. Will likely switch out the speaker with a spare Delta Pro 15a when it gets here.

Nice! I think FM 1009 tried that amp/speaker combo at one point and experienced some cab rattle noises, YMMV. He went back to the stock speaker and kept it as a low volume/recording amp.

penningtron wrote: Mon Apr 11, 2022 8:05 am

tallchris wrote: Sun Apr 10, 2022 10:25 pm Traynor TS-25b. Will likely switch out the speaker with a spare Delta Pro 15a when it gets here.

Nice! I think FM 1009 tried that amp/speaker combo at one point and experienced some cab rattle noises, YMMV. He went back to the stock speaker and kept it as a low volume/recording amp.

Good to know! I've also got a spare KappaLITE 3015, so maybe that'll help reduce rattles if it's the weight of the speaker that's partially causing it.

tallchris wrote: Sun Apr 10, 2022 10:25 pm Traynor TS-25b. Will likely switch out the speaker with a spare Delta Pro 15a when it gets here.

Well dang, turned out the MGR had already sold it in store before I tried to buy it online...

tallchris wrote: Wed Apr 13, 2022 11:23 am Well dang, turned out the MGR had already sold it in store before I tried to buy it online...

Isn't that the worst? You get all pumped up for something and then get a message that it "sold in store" or "is no longer available". I've had this happen with MGR, GC and Reverb over the years and they never let you know right away. It's always days later, often after a polite follow up message asking if it shipped yet. It's not a big deal in the grand scheme of things, but it always hits heavy for some reason. You found some little reason to be excited, your wheels start turning, and then it's taken away.

I've been farting around in the garage getting everything ready to go in case anything breaks my way with getting out to play some shows. I have this old DW5000 pedal that has some problems. It's a double chain drive. I have been hearing about people replacing the cam for the chain with a strap drive, so I ordered one.

Strap, cam, and a few other parts are on the way.

I'm gonna convert it to strap drive and put skateboard bearings in it to replace the factory ones. I'll post a teardown video!

Replacing the input jacks on my half-stacks w/ these Plug-n-play trays.

Anyone w/ a Marshall 1960 cab should consider ditching the built-in jack plates for one of these, although it will require a bit of sawing which I can understand being loathe to do. Those switches are absolute junk. Flimsy, shitty plastic - and it's not something you want to fail, especially when you're driving the cab w/ a tube amp.

I hardwired my marshall cab to 4 ohms after the switch failed and kinda forgot about it when using it on the backline last year at the campout. Welp, got caught short as someone brought a head which only would do 8 or 16 ohms. So yeah, minor surgery being performed this weekend.

dontfeartheringo wrote: Thu Apr 14, 2022 4:55 pm I've been farting around in the garage getting everything ready to go in case anything breaks my way with getting out to play some shows. I have this old DW5000 pedal that has some problems. It's a double chain drive. I have been hearing about people replacing the cam for the chain with a strap drive, so I ordered one.

Strap, cam, and a few other parts are on the way.

I'm gonna convert it to strap drive and put skateboard bearings in it to replace the factory ones. I'll post a teardown video!

I recently overhauled my (single chain) 5000 pedal. It was primarily a new base plate, but some of the phillips screws were stuck so that became a whole thing and I replaced them with allen screws. I didn't know the bearings were replaceable with skateboard bearings, which is really convenient, and probably cheaper than whatever DW's part is.

I have another double chain 5000 that I don't like as much and might be interested in that strap conversion so I'll keep an eye out for that video, thanks!

twelvepoint wrote: Fri Apr 15, 2022 8:29 am

dontfeartheringo wrote: Thu Apr 14, 2022 4:55 pm I've been farting around in the garage getting everything ready to go in case anything breaks my way with getting out to play some shows. I have this old DW5000 pedal that has some problems. It's a double chain drive. I have been hearing about people replacing the cam for the chain with a strap drive, so I ordered one.

Strap, cam, and a few other parts are on the way.

I'm gonna convert it to strap drive and put skateboard bearings in it to replace the factory ones. I'll post a teardown video!

I recently overhauled my (single chain) 5000 pedal. It was primarily a new base plate, but some of the phillips screws were stuck so that became a whole thing and I replaced them with allen screws. I didn't know the bearings were replaceable with skateboard bearings, which is really convenient, and probably cheaper than whatever DW's part is.

I have another double chain 5000 that I don't like as much and might be interested in that strap conversion so I'll keep an eye out for that video, thanks!

So, I didn't actually film the process because I couldn't find my stupid tripod, but here's a text version:

Every single part you need to do this conversion is at Drum Factory Direct online.

If you're doing this conversion: Heat the set screws with a hair dryer for about thirty seconds to loosen the Loc-Tite! Remove all four with a 3/32 allen key. Place them on your tabletop or work bench so that they'll go back into the same holes. One seems to be larger than the rest, or else I'm on crack.

Remove the set screw in the top of the spring cam, or what DW calls the "right side square stroke adjustment" cam. Set it aside in its own special place. It is also 3/32 but is a little longer than all of the set screws that go on the cast iron bass and that hold the hex bar in place.

The hardest part is when you get all the set screws out and you're like "So, what's keeping this thing together? Why can't I slide the hex bar out?"
The answer is "Force of habit and DW's Loc-Tite." You just need a rubber mallet and the blunt end of a punch- a couple of quick taps on the red part that sticks through the spring cam/square adjustment thing, and it's out!

The outer bushing and the smaller bearing on the non-spring (left) side will come flying out, then you'll have to ease the bearing and outer bushing out of the spring side (right). This may take some gentle poking with a flathead screwdriver.

Give everything a good cleaning. Clean the bearings with some sort of mild cleaner that will dry quickly like mineral spirits or acetone. You're just trying to get hardened grease out of there.

Then dry the bearings as best you can and let them sit for a while so that the cleaner can evaporate.

Then lube again with something that is NOT WD40. Use skateboard bearing lube if you can get. Bones Speed Cream or Bronson Speed Co. High Speed Ceramic Oil are good options.

If you have to replace the bearings, the spring side (right) bearing is larger, it's NOT a skateboard bearing, despite what I read on the internet. It's a 7/8" precision bearing:

https://www.drumfactorydirect.com/index ... ts_id=7685

The non-spring side (left) bearing is smaller, it's 3/4":
https://www.drumfactorydirect.com/index ... ts_id=7532

It goes back together in this order: The smaller bearing goes onto the end of the hex shaft first, then the lock nut, then fit the large bushing and the outer bushing on the spring side (right) and thread the hex rod into the left side.

Pushing it halfway through, thread your new cam onto the hex rod using the old scratch marks in the hex rod to tell you where to tighten it down. (I'll bet they're there!) Then thread on the beater hub and finish pushing the hex rod the rest of the way through the right side of the pedal.

Push the left side outer bushing in from the left, make sure everything's flush on both sides, put some Loc-Tite (the BLUE not the RED!!) on your set screws and put them back into place.

Put some Loc-Tite on your set screw that goes into the top of the spring cam. You might need to give the cam a little love tap too, to make it sit flat on end of the hex rod.

The nylon strap does not come with a washer, so I went out to the Magic Coffee Can in the garage that has a million screws and washers in it and grabbed one. I'd do the same if I were you. The one-hole side goes on the bottom of the pedal, then loop the four-hole end over the cam and figure out which hole you want to use and where the strap is most centered on the pedal, then tighten the set screw on the outside of the cam. Now loop the strap over the cam again and push the screw that holds it into place through the right hole and tighten it down. I used Loc-Tite on this, too, but you may decide not to.

The screw that comes with the strap has a wider flange than the one on the cam, so I put the one that came with the cam back into the Magic Coffee Can.

Tighten your strap down. Tighten your beater down. Pull the spring hook up over the spring rocker cam and that should be all you need to do!

If I find another donor DW5000 pedal, I may order a set of the 3/4 and 7/8 permanently lubricated bearings from McMaster Carr and see if they feel any better/faster/smoother.

The trade number on the smaller DW bearing is 626z, which means outside diameter of 19mm or 0.748031 (basically 3/4") and inside diameter of 6mm or 0.23622" (basically 1/4"). The sealed bearing part number for that at McMaster is 626-2Z (SKU 6153K26) $13.00 and the part number for the permanently lubricated sealed bearing is R4A-2RS (SKU 2342K184) $14.56

The trade number on the largerDW bearing is (I think) R6-2Z, which means outside diameter of 22.225mm or 0.875 (basically 7/8") and inside diameter of 9.525mm or 0.375" (basically 3/4"). The sealed bearing part number for that at McMaster is R6-2Z (SKU 6138K24) $12.83 and the part number for the permanently lubricated sealed bearing is R6-2RS (SKU 2342K185) $15.48

https://www.mcmaster.com/bearings/ball- ... -bearings/

Yes, it would add $30 (with shipping) to the cost, but who knows? I'm a firm believer in FAFO. It might make it the best pedal ever.

It turns out that the bearings in Iron Cobra pedals (which are what I use most of the time) are skateboard sized bearings, and there's a strap conversion (and direct drive conversion) for them, too:

https://www.acd-unlimited.at/english/on ... /upgrades/

I have an old IC that has played a thousand or more gigs and god knows how many practices. It may be my test case on all of this.

uh, I got an "as is" Sennheiser MD 441...for $200 shipped... here's hoping whatever issues it's got are easily fixed. excited either way.

Mesa D180 (non-graphic EQ version) and RoadReady 2x15 cab. Seller doesn't want to separate them, but I'll very likely sell the amp and cover the total cost.