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Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

1102 by Teacher's Pet
I have a very shabby Epiphone SG, it says GIBSON on the truss rod cover and MADE IN KOREA on the back of the headstock, I think it's from about 2000.

I thought I could learn some stuff if went through the necessary steps to get it playable again. On the cheap.

It needs a nut. Stew Mac has a cheap "for Epiphone" slotted nut, and the dimensions seem to be close enough.
Is this what I want?

I'm not sure what the top radius is on my guitar. 15"?
There's also a "for Gibson" option, should I consider those?

Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

1104 by TylerDeadPine
bassdriver wrote: Tue Feb 07, 2023 2:18 pm
TylerDeadPine wrote: Tue Feb 07, 2023 9:52 am Three cheers for Eric Von Valtier
Yeah, fantastic amp. Fun story, a Studio guy from Toronto bought one of my Studer preamps. We chatted for a bit and when I mentioned that I also make a TS 50 clone he told me that he knew Pete pretty well and that he sure would have liked seeing my project……
That's great - always heard he was cool like that.

Fun story - early in my career I reached out to Yorkville to see if they had any positions in engineering - As I did controls/robotics automation at the time, they told me "We tried to automate our manufacturing before and it went poorly, unfortunately probably won't try that again". I didn't hold it against them

Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

1105 by MoreSpaceEcho
Teacher's Pet wrote: Tue Feb 07, 2023 10:48 am I have a very shabby Epiphone SG, it says GIBSON on the truss rod cover and MADE IN KOREA on the back of the headstock, I think it's from about 2000.

I thought I could learn some stuff if went through the necessary steps to get it playable again. On the cheap.
I have one too, also very shabby. I just measured the fretboard and it's a 12" radius.

I've no idea where/when mine's from, someone left it at my old loft sometime in the 00s, where it sat neglected for years. A decade ago I dusted it off and tried to make it playable, but back then I didn't know what I was doing and so it sat neglected for some more years, the past 5 in pieces in our basement here. A month ago I put it back together on a whim and by some miracle the neck is still straight and it actually plays. The only problem is the action is twice as high as it needs to be and the bridge is as low as it'll go, so I either need to shim the neck or make it my slide guitar. Never shimmed a neck before but it doesn't seem like rocket surgery, so I might as well give it a go.
work: http://oldcolonymastering.com
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Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

1106 by penningtron
MoreSpaceEcho wrote: Tue Feb 07, 2023 3:20 pm The only problem is the action is twice as high as it needs to be and the bridge is as low as it'll go, so I either need to shim the neck or make it my slide guitar. Never shimmed a neck before but it doesn't seem like rocket surgery, so I might as well give it a go.
Confused me for a bit before remembering my MIK Epiphone 'Grabber': ah yes, bolt ons. They do strike me as sturdy instruments that could probably just benefit from better pickups and electronics. Probably should have just done that to mine instead of selling it for $200.
Music

Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

1107 by TylerDeadPine
    MoreSpaceEcho wrote: Tue Feb 07, 2023 3:20 pm
    Teacher's Pet wrote: Tue Feb 07, 2023 10:48 am I have a very shabby Epiphone SG, it says GIBSON on the truss rod cover and MADE IN KOREA on the back of the headstock, I think it's from about 2000.

    I thought I could learn some stuff if went through the necessary steps to get it playable again. On the cheap.
    I have one too, also very shabby. I just measured the fretboard and it's a 12" radius.

    I've no idea where/when mine's from, someone left it at my old loft sometime in the 00s, where it sat neglected for years. A decade ago I dusted it off and tried to make it playable, but back then I didn't know what I was doing and so it sat neglected for some more years, the past 5 in pieces in our basement here. A month ago I put it back together on a whim and by some miracle the neck is still straight and it actually plays. The only problem is the action is twice as high as it needs to be and the bridge is as low as it'll go, so I either need to shim the neck or make it my slide guitar. Never shimmed a neck before but it doesn't seem like rocket surgery, so I might as well give it a go.
    Removing the neck and re-finishing is the hardest part. When you're putting the shim in, get a low profile c-clamp so you can clamp up and run a string down it to make sure you're good.

    The nut okay?

    Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

    1109 by Nate Dort
    llllllllllllllllllll wrote: Wed Feb 08, 2023 6:20 am What would be better for shielding electronics in a guitar - a brass plate that fits in the pickguard cavity or that foil shielding or whatever it is?
    Considering that you should shield all surfaces of the cavity, including the walls and the back of the cover, I don't think you're going to accomplish that with a single brass plate on one surface.

    It's not so much about having a thicker shield, but having a fully-enclosed cavity. EMF doesn't necessarily travel in a straight line perpendicular to the surface of your guitar.

    You can actually get pretty decent shielding with wire mesh, as long as you fully surround the cavity and all shields are connected to each other. Faraday Cage

    Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere

    1110 by Tom Wanderer
    MoreSpaceEcho wrote: Tue Feb 07, 2023 3:20 pm Never shimmed a neck before but it doesn't seem like rocket surgery, so I might as well give it a go.
    I've shimmed a few necks and it's been relatively easy. Not doing pro setups, mind you, just making guitars comfortable to play to the best of my ability. I've used plastic coated playing cards cut into a thin strip (with one edge slightly rounded to fit nicely into the heel of the pocket). Even with something that thin, you can often get away with just one or two layers. You can buy special shims of brass or wood or just DIY. There are a lot of suggestions out there. Start with just a little bit of thickness, one ply of a card or something thin like that, and see how far it takes you. It usually doesn't take much.
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