https://www.ebay.com/itm/385581031606
Made a lowball offer on this Marshall DSL40 and it arrived today. Took 5 minutes to fix. Reseated the DSP card inside, as it was halfway out of its socket, and replaced the missing output tubes with some used ones I had in my stash. Fired right up. Going to replace the cracked corner protectors and then flip it.
Re: PRF Members Tech Journal
132Have a Neumann TLM103 that I inherited from a dude that used to do a Weed Podcast (I'm in Portland Or) and he used to think it was cool to just blow tons of smoke into the mic so it was covered in icky muck. I bought a little replacement diaphragm from Micparts.com and installed it and the mic sounds pretty good now. Sounds just like the other, NON-420 friendly TLM103 I have at work. Not a bad fix for like $130. May try to clean the OG diaphragm with alcohol or something and pop it in a random MXL body or something just to see what happens. Any tips for cleaning mic diaphragms? This one is visibly mucky with dank sticky rez.
Re: PRF Members Tech Journal
133This guy has a pretty good technique. I did this myself on one of my 414s years ago and it worked well.
Re: PRF Members Tech Journal
134I follow that colepicksvintage guy on instagram and he seems like the go to for ribbon and dynamic mics. I wonder about condenser and tube stuff though - not that he couldn’t, I just don’t see him post about them as much.
Mine is an Audio Technica at4060 that I rolled the dice with their repair dept with. Unfortunately the mic is on its second trip back to them after a costly element replacement.
It has wind/sea wooshy noises that is intermittent only in that its noisy 90% of the time. Sometimes it stops for a bit, then it starts again. Doesn’t seem to matter how long I let the mic warm up or how much I pay AT to fix it!
Hopefully they can make it right. They were nice enough to send a shipping label and take the mic in on a warranty repair this time.
Mine is an Audio Technica at4060 that I rolled the dice with their repair dept with. Unfortunately the mic is on its second trip back to them after a costly element replacement.
It has wind/sea wooshy noises that is intermittent only in that its noisy 90% of the time. Sometimes it stops for a bit, then it starts again. Doesn’t seem to matter how long I let the mic warm up or how much I pay AT to fix it!
Hopefully they can make it right. They were nice enough to send a shipping label and take the mic in on a warranty repair this time.
thecr4ne wrote: Wed May 03, 2023 5:48 pmCole was referred to me by Misha at Russian Recording for ribbon mic work as well. I haven't actually sent any mics his way, but we exchanged a few emails and he's definitely getting my business...at some point.Bubber wrote: Wed May 03, 2023 11:17 amNot sure if I'm misunderstanding your question, but if you're asking if ppl have recommendations for mic repair, I sent a pile of EVs in to Cole Suddarth in Nashville about a year ago and I couldn't be happier about it. First heard about him via Lil Bub LLC. Anyway, very reasonably priced and fast. His Instagram account is worth following, too: colespicksvintagellllllllllllllllllll wrote: Sat Feb 18, 2023 11:06 am Anybody using professionals for mic repairs these days?
Re: PRF Members Tech Journal
1351955 Magnatone Troubadour, model 112:
Found this on Reverb: https://reverb.com/item/69155900-magnat ... ther-studs
Schematic:
I probably paid too much, but I've never owned or worked on a Magnatone, so I couldn't pass it up.
I knew the rust maybe pointed to water damage or mice, but boy was I in for a surprise when I opened it up.
Luckily, I didn't find any dead ones in there, but it was totally trashed.
I cleaned the cabinet with bleach and denatured alcohol (separately), and scrubbed the cloth covering (it's not really Tolex) and the baffle/grill cloth with some mild plant-based cleaner we had under the sink.
I sprayed the shit out of the circuit with denatured alcohol before I gloved-up and stripped the chassis down. Then I treated it with phosphoric acid and coated it with rust converting primer.
Drew up a wiring diagram based on my reverse engineering and the above schematic. There were a few small differences. 0.1uF Bypass cap on V1 Instrument input cathode. Extra B+ voltage dropping stage feeding most of the preamp plates.
Replaced all the components:
The transformers were still good, as was everything on the panel. Tubes were good, but somebody had dropped 12AU7s in place of the 12AX7s, so I corrected that. Original Oxford speaker had a rubbing voice coil. I dropped in a 60s Cleveland AlNiCo I had sitting around. Also replaced the disintegrating original handle.
Sounds great now. Dead quiet, breaks up very nicely. Instrument input is a little bit brighter from that extra cathode bypass cap. Tele bridge pickup sounds good in the mic input.
Found this on Reverb: https://reverb.com/item/69155900-magnat ... ther-studs
Schematic:
![Image](https://elektrotanya.com/PREVIEWS/63463243/23432455/magnatone/magnatone_112.pdf_1.png)
I probably paid too much, but I've never owned or worked on a Magnatone, so I couldn't pass it up.
I knew the rust maybe pointed to water damage or mice, but boy was I in for a surprise when I opened it up.
![Image](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaWg_Mx8aMScoDaCqDuAlBdmJgKYOqhvf7H3Dy74jQtiSVKh_mjGGf70qlO2CDfHmr55cAm2W9yJzbvMhBgLNalzXwPgo2ksC_FCsMP0YJk_hW5I8i6lqHYSndTBiTqQEUSCI5mTe_Arw3gUyayASn2_jA=w1719-h1289-s-no?.jpg)
![Image](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaVEExCJdVyHHAT2eK9KPSNLtUKH24OxVzPN5hWPS966-lW8EKdMPpVabd6Z9bASFAjQGIat5A6Cqgek8jBxFPgOzHMspNwBgZ4UFoKkE8-IApiti03CIPv-ZX0iXeUZRWsiH22mO0sdtCZIqVuIMaISGg=w1719-h1289-s-no?.jpg)
![Image](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaV09twNLhKOu3ZvdkcYNGFLeBkSb1N2Twlsj1ANKrHcu0I9Jd1cilfuiMVBdNBULv7mdKPgp73U8S9ngDQlFLbfDa5j4EF1lkeWUpmTwmaNs8Jn9-CgCFlgMWUDhx97kwCcZb_oJ2nwI9mCyfbNNHwwHg=w1463-h1097-s-no?.jpg)
Luckily, I didn't find any dead ones in there, but it was totally trashed.
I cleaned the cabinet with bleach and denatured alcohol (separately), and scrubbed the cloth covering (it's not really Tolex) and the baffle/grill cloth with some mild plant-based cleaner we had under the sink.
I sprayed the shit out of the circuit with denatured alcohol before I gloved-up and stripped the chassis down. Then I treated it with phosphoric acid and coated it with rust converting primer.
![Image](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaW8qrKovAVdMfGsrR_yn3bxv-GFGT7ffpHgkoxIRy-9RRV0JukTo3PT06OQ4Ek-uIjm1DDxeEQyoZoPfDn0foZ7azuBt7vDHTkDDsAMETSHt_Cg_gIhecymo2woxmBWHHt7Y2DW99XYC9y_azkHK6x91Q=w1463-h1097-s-no?.jpg)
![Image](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaUq_GLUqnL3bXeV4wpnOSEUZ-VA2NszrRJjWtJ-f6-fvdTnvlHx5C6aeV2G0aOv3zdKYT6r1csFMEtKAqfZgPBH1vGBzC17Z2VjamLsIN1MIUwQGCCxbt63_fvyhOjF8uwNYVG6A0KMWDYE_lxzAaPRuA=w1463-h1097-s-no?.jpg)
Drew up a wiring diagram based on my reverse engineering and the above schematic. There were a few small differences. 0.1uF Bypass cap on V1 Instrument input cathode. Extra B+ voltage dropping stage feeding most of the preamp plates.
Replaced all the components:
![Image](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaX0jnYlq4Lqz8lBejcorJCD9U9CZuZqkFToY-ep4_H-oeEboL4dCojuSRXI5akJDzKpC9LDlSxNWC1QG_2g4BrvcUOSMepJNbNQzqg8Fd5yVZ-gXSjXD8ygsHCK3BBYibDeRGKxnhmfQEuURVgu0w1Skg=w1338-h676-s-no?.jpg)
![Image](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaXZpiaVXjwElgA7WqwB9h_7mwG63CdHAa-KT1boLZXKhyOTpBuSmIpG8vvW7g89v8b5bYvPFuWs75vqw41XEDybLL3VUi7TStQiEMuRiU_qQ3y7IxHsZiw-X4QKVjjRhd8HfIWjrBrXqhfRzIJoRs5S2A=w1463-h1097-s-no?.jpg)
![Image](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaVMsscpiD07ZckJ-A67MyurOG60WsNI1yszxp-LgYgkNGsIwRIDhWyYkGyb33rrsVS4JcFoOUW2VwKN810F-1vucX-tOqd-6yhfQ_ePBXtorS5cyNO2HWOYa3a55BXoyRsoO-wA3fwmj4i9i_8qZgndRQ=w1463-h1097-s-no?.jpg)
The transformers were still good, as was everything on the panel. Tubes were good, but somebody had dropped 12AU7s in place of the 12AX7s, so I corrected that. Original Oxford speaker had a rubbing voice coil. I dropped in a 60s Cleveland AlNiCo I had sitting around. Also replaced the disintegrating original handle.
![Image](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaXpIjXz1wZraG2rhgC4BBq9Lmq6VVVMgncf80o2af3I8OlMfDw6iQknxwzvDfQc882VzIs42n4sjLBm1sC5EsnVolDzppMpCR3pLtMkygXv6AIJGhOulrKqx-7a4qw2Ex1DDTC4fDGYYWGYgwRYXETOKQ=w1463-h1097-s-no?.jpg)
![Image](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaVYiy8w28JSQReje0D3ep4qVKgKvY62JFdcI_LG4LUvWw7G82YdMpgzxADkRKCwyR6zEczAhOOMXkB104eR1MUdBwKbHT2U76VtFEuxOWA13xQnpku-AoZxgtyi9iEBJC74GGGtEvLxhaOafVAlJXeHnw=w1719-h1289-s-no?.jpg)
Sounds great now. Dead quiet, breaks up very nicely. Instrument input is a little bit brighter from that extra cathode bypass cap. Tele bridge pickup sounds good in the mic input.
Re: PRF Members Tech Journal
136Amazing restoration! Not familiar with this amp, very unique exterior styling.
Re: PRF Members Tech Journal
137The studded exterior is not original...perhaps the work of some sort of Torlex alter ego. A pangolin lord of armored amps.
![Image](https://www.shutterstock.com/image-vector/pangolin-animal-sketch-scratch-board-260nw-2003930726.jpg)
![Image](https://www.shutterstock.com/image-vector/pangolin-animal-sketch-scratch-board-260nw-2003930726.jpg)
Re: PRF Members Tech Journal
138The studs are kinda growing on me, in a WV mountain folk-art sort of way.