I have one of those huge Musician cabs. It is hilarious because it could fit 6 x 12" but only has 2x12" speakers in it. I thought about changing the baffle and making like a 2x12 and a single 15" or something like that. Right now it has 2 ATC 12" PA speakers that are rated at like 400 watts each. I use it as a stupid loud keyboard cab.Nate Dort wrote: Sun Feb 25, 2024 8:58 am I don't think it's a Peavey Musician cabinet. They didn't have removable back panels, and their 1/4" jacks were in the center, not offset:
Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere
1812I have a Shure Beta 52 that I've had forever and doesn't get much use because... Beta 52. It's ok on bass guitar but nothing else really. I'm thinking of installing a lift switch to bypass the scoop circuit that is in there. I actually think there is enough room to put the switch under the windscreen next to the capsule. It's just a little filter circuit that sits in parallel to the capsule on the way to the XLR pins. Curious what that mic sounds like without it. My guess is Transformerless SM57. Anyone ever do this?
Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere
1813This sounds like a fun project and eagerly await your published sound samples.Kniferide wrote: Mon Feb 26, 2024 4:02 pm I have a Shure Beta 52 that I've had forever and doesn't get much use because... Beta 52. It's ok on bass guitar but nothing else really. I'm thinking of installing a lift switch to bypass the scoop circuit that is in there. I actually think there is enough room to put the switch under the windscreen next to the capsule. It's just a little filter circuit that sits in parallel to the capsule on the way to the XLR pins. Curious what that mic sounds like without it. My guess is Transformerless SM57. Anyone ever do this?
The other main & much-less ubiquitous kick mic offering from Shure, the Beta 91A, has a switch built-in to defeat a smiley-curve circuit as well and provide a flatter response. If I had to guess at results, I'd think being able to bypass the scoop would make the Beta 52 a better bass guitar mic. We've got Shure FMs here, if the results are pleasing, they should suggest releasing a revised a-version with this built-in.
I have one semi-permanently installed in my kick as I don't use a ported reso head and honestly do not recall where I have the switch positioned. Likely w/ the scoop engaged as recorded material from that mic has an insane amount of attack.
Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere
1814When treating a room, do you account for all those big 4x12s 2x12s and 1x15s you used to buy when you had a practice space? Sometimes buying a whole ass used loaded cabinet from a guy in an apartment was cheaper than buying new speakers when something blew.
Maybe I should just throw blankets over them and use them like a gobo.
Maybe I should just throw blankets over them and use them like a gobo.
Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere
1815I used to try to do this actually. My thinking was that since they were on wheels I could put them wherever.llllllllllllllllllll wrote: Sat Mar 09, 2024 12:45 pm When treating a room, do you account for all those big 4x12s 2x12s and 1x15s you used to buy when you had a practice space? Sometimes buying a whole ass used loaded cabinet from a guy in an apartment was cheaper than buying new speakers when something blew.
Maybe I should just throw blankets over them and use them like a gobo.
Actual results were disappointing. They were helpful with breaking up reflections, not so great for any sort of sound absorption/isolation.
Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere
1816So...I have not purchased Deoxit in some time and there is now a dizzying array of deoxit-branded products. D-series, F-series, G-series, S-series and more.
From what I have been able to discern, D-series I think the original and mostly designed for metal-on-metal connections.
I'm going through the final stages of getting my old Otari working again and there all those tiny screwdriver calibration pots on the rear I want to clean. When we did calibration, we could see the levels jumping which I'm pretty sure is a sure sign of dirty connections.
My guess is that I want F-series for this, does that sound right? Even the "which one to buy" video BY Caig only covers the D-series.
Or am I a sucker/chump and there's not actually any difference & it's just marketing?
From what I have been able to discern, D-series I think the original and mostly designed for metal-on-metal connections.
I'm going through the final stages of getting my old Otari working again and there all those tiny screwdriver calibration pots on the rear I want to clean. When we did calibration, we could see the levels jumping which I'm pretty sure is a sure sign of dirty connections.
My guess is that I want F-series for this, does that sound right? Even the "which one to buy" video BY Caig only covers the D-series.
Or am I a sucker/chump and there's not actually any difference & it's just marketing?
Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere
1817I use the Fader stuff (green) on pots/faders and 99% rubbing alcohol on edge connectors and stuff like that, I also have used and still have a giant can of CRC contact cleaner that seems to work fine for non Pot/Fader stuff. I think I got it at a Auto Zone. If I remember the D is the regular red can Deoxit stuff that you used to be able to buy at Radio Shack.Garth wrote: Mon Mar 11, 2024 10:54 am So...I have not purchased Deoxit in some time and there is now a dizzying array of deoxit-branded products. D-series, F-series, G-series, S-series and more.
From what I have been able to discern, D-series I think the original and mostly designed for metal-on-metal connections.
I'm going through the final stages of getting my old Otari working again and there all those tiny screwdriver calibration pots on the rear I want to clean. When we did calibration, we could see the levels jumping which I'm pretty sure is a sure sign of dirty connections.
My guess is that I want F-series for this, does that sound right? Even the "which one to buy" video BY Caig only covers the D-series.
Or am I a sucker/chump and there's not actually any difference & it's just marketing?
Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere
1818I'm getting a cheap combo amp for another rehearsal space, so I'll buy Peavey TNT 100. It has a rattling speaker, so I was wondering if anybody knew what would be a good replacement for it? Preferably cheap (so not GOOD good, but like, OK).
Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere
1819can you specify "cheap"? like below what price?
Also are you in the US because I'd think availability is going to drive your cost-decision more than anything else if you aren't.
Also are you in the US because I'd think availability is going to drive your cost-decision more than anything else if you aren't.
Re: Small questions that don't fit anywhere
1820There's a difference, but you can likely get by with D-series for everything, and F-series for faders just because it helps them feel nice, no reason to lubricate jacks (you actually like not like that). Unless you're cleaning frequently gold contactsGarth wrote: Mon Mar 11, 2024 10:54 am So...I have not purchased Deoxit in some time and there is now a dizzying array of deoxit-branded products. D-series, F-series, G-series, S-series and more.
From what I have been able to discern, D-series I think the original and mostly designed for metal-on-metal connections.
I'm going through the final stages of getting my old Otari working again and there all those tiny screwdriver calibration pots on the rear I want to clean. When we did calibration, we could see the levels jumping which I'm pretty sure is a sure sign of dirty connections.
My guess is that I want F-series for this, does that sound right? Even the "which one to buy" video BY Caig only covers the D-series.
Or am I a sucker/chump and there's not actually any difference & it's just marketing?
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.I/id.5/.f