Nate Dort wrote: Mon Mar 18, 2024 7:18 pm

llllllllllllllllllll wrote: Mon Mar 18, 2024 7:08 pm Sennheiser 441 - are all models basically the same?

I've never heard talk of a difference between any eras or models of these things, not like the SM7 vs. SM7A vs. SM7B rabbit hole that I just went back down this afternoon. The II vs. U suffix is just Tuchel vs. XLR connector.

Yeah I think it's one of those mics Sennheiser doesn't fuck with. They are super cool. Hard to pay a thou for a dynamic but they are kinda the super car of the dynamic world. Lots of options. Really flat and clear. Tight transients. HiFi dynamic. I love the look but just can't pull the trigger. There is a pretty shady stereo pair on reverb for like 1200 or something... from Korea... right bruh... sure.

Unlike the 421 which they seem to have ruined. Or it just wasn't good to begin with. Not sure which.

I picked up a Tangent 802a 8 channel mixer yesterday. It's pretty perfect for what I do (small band basement recording to 4 and 8 track cassette) and I'm already impressed after a very quick functionality test. I'm going to dig into it more this weekend, but here are a couple questions and observations;

None of the dip switches on the monitor bus latch. Someone mounted a little bracket that holds down the 'main' mix button so that it's always on. I removed the bracket and tested all the different monitor sources and they work, though the switches to engage them only function as momentary for the time being. Not a big deal, I can work with that but I'll probably try and source some switches to get it sorted. It's odd because all of the other push button switches elsewhere on the board latch perfectly.

Channel 3 wasn't passing signal, but I reseated the ribbon cable connection and it came back.

The main thing right now is that channel 1 is about half as loud as the other channels, but not distorted. Almost like a pad is engaged (which this mixer doesn't have). I'm most eager to sort this issue out, but not sure where to start. Hopefully I'll have some more time to get into this weekend.

One other stray observation, running a line signal into the unbalanced line in/hi z 1/4" inputs, the signal is much hotter with the plug tip only in far enough to engage the first contact. When it goes in fully and hits the second contact the signal is quieter. It's the same with all of these inputs on every channel. I'm sure there's an explanation, but I don't know what it is.

I'm comfortable digging in, and I love that this guy is modular. Seems like just the thing for me 'graduate to' and also to learn on. I've got nice soldering and desoldering equipment, and I may go for a recap eventually, but I want to start with the issue on channel 1 and get things to a base level before I start with a major overhaul.

As always, any information/education/advice is most welcome.

I have a 12ch tangent In pieces, doing recap and some hotroding. I do have a set of documents/schematics.
The switches are all mechanically latching so maybe they where replaced with wrong part or are broke.

Dirty contacts and bad caps if they are 40+ years old are common issues.
Corrosion can be a nightmare in the ribbon cables too

scrotescape 4 real wrote: Thu Mar 21, 2024 8:58 am I have a 12ch tangent In pieces, doing recap and some hotroding. I do have a set of documents/schematics.
The switches are all mechanically latching so maybe they where replaced with wrong part or are broke.

Dirty contacts and bad caps if they are 40+ years old are common issues.
Corrosion can be a nightmare in the ribbon cables too

If the documents are in a digital format, I would sure appreciate if you could share them.

It does seem like my monitor switches were replaced with momentary switches. Odd. Yes, my plan is to start with the easier/physical stuff; contacts, connections, etc. before wading into components.

Thanks!

I have a guitar body that I successfully slapped some paisley fabric onto. Looks pretty good by my estimation.


I need somebody, anybody with a spray booth or facilities to help me finish. Nobody is biting. I've called every auto shop in town, hit up Texas Toast guitars down in Denver (fuckin don't even get me started on the phone conversation I had with them), called all the indie guitar makers I can find on Google.

I'm thinking of doing the finish myself with a couple rattle cans from Oxford Guitar Supply when it warms up. I haven't used spray paint since I was in highschool and tagged a girl's name on a building.

Am I gonna screw this up?

Tips? Tricks? Some other type business I could call in the northern Colorado area? I was thinking someone at a body shop could do this on their lunch break for a benji, but nobody wants to work anymore. <Sarcasm>

GuyLaCroix wrote: Mon Mar 25, 2024 8:22 am I have a guitar body that I successfully slapped some paisley fabric onto. Looks pretty good by my estimation.


I need somebody, anybody with a spray booth or facilities to help me finish. Nobody is biting. I've called every auto shop in town, hit up Texas Toast guitars down in Denver (fuckin don't even get me started on the phone conversation I had with them), called all the indie guitar makers I can find on Google.

I'm thinking of doing the finish myself with a couple rattle cans from Oxford Guitar Supply when it warms up. I haven't used spray paint since I was in highschool and tagged a girl's name on a building.

Am I gonna screw this up?

Tips? Tricks? Some other type business I could call in the northern Colorado area? I was thinking someone at a body shop could do this on their lunch break for a benji, but nobody wants to work anymore. <Sarcasm>

I'll hit up my luthier friends. I know they never want to do that stuff but maybe someone does.

FM CJury used to do this too.

You can get good results w/ rattlecans these days - just do some practice runs, watch youtube videos, etc. With fabric I'd think you'd need quite a few more coats than what you'd use for normal paint if you're really wanting a smooth finish which might be why others didn't want to touch it? But the up-side would be that it should be way more forgiving, hiding things like dust a little bit better.

The better "professional-grade" rattlecan stuff needs good ventilation and PPE - please do not skip this step. Better to be over-protected than under.

There's a shop in the Denver metro area that does nice nitro finishes called McGibney. The bad news is the last time my buddy checked it was $600. Rattle can might be the way.

The black cans of Minwax lacquer are nitrocellulose, if that's what you're looking for. That fabric is going to drink the lacquer though, so be prepared to go through a lot of cans.