TylerDeadPine wrote: Wed Jul 31, 2024 6:48 am

andyman wrote: Wed Jul 31, 2024 5:39 am I want to extend it so I can run it through an attenuator and I already have speaker cables - I assume an adapter like this would do just fine?:

As in, adapters don't have the same qualifications as instrument vs speaker cables?

It’s likely built with connections sufficient for speaker power (as in looks like a sleeve shaft and the tips are probably a plate that touches both. Or the tips touch, whatever you want to imagine to get your cornflakes crispy)
But for a variety of reasons that would cause it to become disconnected I would avoid that and just make a longer cable

Maybe we're past this already, but for posterity:

When I was trying to figure out my headphone setup in my studio way back in the day I bought a couple of these as extenders. I found that they were chronically intermittent and would stop passing signal if you so much as tickled them wrong or sneezed in their vicinity. I'd be worried that it might do the same behind an amp but mess up the speaker load/impedance situation and cause more havoc than my disappearing cue mix did.

andyman wrote: Wed Jul 31, 2024 11:45 am On a separate note I dropped a guitar in to a tech yesterday - who's typically booked back to back - for a setup which costs £80. Pretty normal price.
We established there that it also needs a new toggle switch, and last night I get a prelim invoice with the switch down for £12, a new jack down for £6 and then 'wiring' as £30(!).
Late this afternoon I email him asking if he'll just do the setup and sell me the components to wire up myself, but he replied he'd already installed the components. I ask if the guitar is done and he's like "The body's done - just the neck and final setup to go".

I just got ripped off, right?

The repair charges all seem fair for parts and installation. The setup is the ripoff. That equals $100! Which is about $20 too much. A setup is new strings, truss adjustment, and intonation. They might do a courtesy cleaning depending on the shop. I do all my own setups generally, but ended up paying for one recently when I had to get a new nut. That setup was $60, which I realize is in the cheaper side.

Out of curiosity, what style guitar was it? Some switches are more expensive than others, as is disassembly. And some setups are more complicated than others.

Every service I use is like 50-100% more than in 2019 and 75% as competent.

tommy wrote: Thu Aug 01, 2024 9:00 am The repair charges all seem fair for parts and installation. The setup is the ripoff. That equals $100! Which is about $20 too much. A setup is new strings, truss adjustment, and intonation. They might do a courtesy cleaning depending on the shop. I do all my own setups generally, but ended up paying for one recently when I had to get a new nut. That setup was $60, which I realize is in the cheaper side.

Out of curiosity, what style guitar was it? Some switches are more expensive than others, as is disassembly. And some setups are more complicated than others.

A DIY baritone. It was a basic as it gets three-way switch.
The setup price is appallingly normal for London, but I wondered if he had rushed wiring the switch and jack so as to make a handy extra £30 for, what, 15 mins basic soldering work?

I figure ultimately you're taking it to them for the stuff you can't do yourself, due to lack of expertise or tooling (all that string and saddle stuff).

FMR RNC on really nice mode on strummed acoustic..

why does it kinda sound like it’s doing something but I have to turn the threshold all the way down to get the peak reduction meters to light up?

I was messing with the Ratio 2 to 6. Turning off really nice mode it behaves much more predictably.

I usually set compressors so it’s working a couple of db’s here and there unless there’s a trouble-spot somewhere in the song. My general taste is that if I had an LA2A for everything I would just use that.

The recording situation is nothing crazy, just a sdc on an acoustic maybe a foot away, moving around the mic until it sounds good, not hpf or anything. It could have used a little more level but its not that bad, peaks around -18 or a little less for the minute section I was working

I think I like the RNLA and PBC6A better than the RNC because though they’re not as ‘transparent,’ I can hear what they’re doing easier.

llllllllllllllllllll wrote: Mon Aug 05, 2024 10:45 pm
I think I like the RNLA and PBC6A better than the RNC because though they’re not as ‘transparent,’ I can hear what they’re doing easier.

So do I. I have noticed that Really Nice mode makes it so transparent that it is hard to feel like you are controlling the box. I actually don't use it very often. It's a pretty transparent compression with it off. I would trade mine for another RNLA any day. Those sound great. Together it is kinda cool to set up the RNLA to grab peaks feeding the RNC doing like 2:1 really softly. Other than that I don't do much with my RNC. Too "Nice" for me. Lately I've been using MXR Bass Compressor pedals for smashy smash. Love it. Not "Nice" at all.

I've been using my RNC for watching movies where I don't want the sound effects to be 50x louder than the dialogue

twelvepoint wrote: Tue Aug 06, 2024 9:51 am I've been using my RNC for watching movies where I don't want the sound effects to be 50x louder than the dialogue

TV's need inserts.

Kniferide wrote: Tue Aug 06, 2024 9:53 am

twelvepoint wrote: Tue Aug 06, 2024 9:51 am I've been using my RNC for watching movies where I don't want the sound effects to be 50x louder than the dialogue

TV's need inserts.

Agree. I'm doing this at my home office thru what's my home studio, when I have something playing in the background, but it would be great to patch a comp and EQ in for my regular TV so I can hear the dialogue without turning on captioning

My TV has some sort of limiter I can enable for exactly this. It's not transparent at all.