llllllllllllllllllllllll wrote:I think vintage 30s are 60 watts. There s a thread on here about using the same speakers for both guitar and bass.Yep.The one thing that seems like it might be worth thinking over is if anything sounds woofy/farty at the moment. If that's the case, something that's seventy-five or higher as far as wattage might be worth looking into.

ErikG wrote:....speaker cab for a blackface Bandmaster. More portable than the matching 2x12 behemoth. Clean tones and pedals.(examples linked below)The tiltback 2x12 blackface cabinet that should have been stock for your head is relatively small. Do you have the huge silverface one? or the crazy diagonal square Fender one?If you're into clean tones only, I like the Weber California with a Bandmaster. If you use distortion too, the Weber Chicago is great. Or a mix of both if you're sticking with a 2x12. If you want more mids go for a Celestion clone like a WGS ET90 or Veteran 30.A widebody Mesa 1x12" with either an EVM-12L or the Black Shadow speaker would also sound great with a bandmaster. I'd probably do open back but go closed back if you want the lows super tight.

The older Peavey Black Widow speakers are kind of a nice all around jam. I've got a 15" in an open back cab and really like it for guitar but it can handle bass no problem. They used to be dirt cheap but I think people have caught on a bit but you can still find them cheap in like old trashed Peavey PA cabs. I also have a newer Eminence. I think it's called the Delta?? It's apparently their version of the EV speaker and it sounds really good for bass in an Acoustic closed back 1x15 but is also fine for guitar. Pretty affordable speaker and it's been in there for 5-6 years of loud bass playing and has held up without issue.

n.c. wrote:this might be better off in the tech questions, but...i need speakers for my two music man cabinets. one is a 2x12, one is a 1x15. same enclosures. i have one celestion vintage 30 (16ohm). i want to be able to use either a music man hd150 or a blackface bassman with one or both cabinets, ideally for either bass or guitar.i assume a 'vintage 30' is 30 watts? so if i get a second i can get to 60 watts and 8 ohm, right? so nothing i have to worry about with the bassman, but with the 150, i could probably blow them. for the 15, i probably want 8 ohms, to match the 2x12, yes? the music man is switchable between 4 and 8 ohms, so that works out. is this asking for too much versatility out of a speaker? and should i just forget about the vintage 30 and get higher rate speakers?If I had to select a speaker to play guitar & bass out of, it wouldn't be a V30 - if you really want that sound (because Bassmans DO sound amazing through V30s) I would think about grabbing a couple of these https://wgsusa.com/et90 as they're similar with higher power handling. throw an EV15L in the 1x15 and call it done

I've recently started accumulating some pedals - and realize I need a power supply. I don't know if I need a pedal board at this point, but would like something that would integrate into one if that time ever comes. What do you pedal mongers suggest?

Please recommend a variac--not for tone-chasing, but more for warming up old amps' power capacitors slowly.

barndog wrote:I've recently started accumulating some pedals - and realize I need a power supply. I don't know if I need a pedal board at this point, but would like something that would integrate into one if that time ever comes. What do you pedal mongers suggest?Get something with isolated outputs.The MXR Iso-Brick and Mini Iso-Brick are the most cost effective ones but I really hate that they both have an external transformer (messier, ultimately takes up more room).The Voodoo Lab ones (Pedal Power 2+ and Iso5) are mid price point but aren't as flexible with the voltages/current draw. These are usually easy to find used as well.The Strymon stuff (Ojai/Zuma) is great but super pricey.One Spot now makes an isolated one. So does Cioks (non standard connectors). But I don't have experience with either.If you are going to limit it to 5 or less pedals get the Mini Iso-Brick if you don't mind the external wall wart. Otherwise get the Iso5. That will probably cover you.If you don't give a shit about noise (and/or don't leave stuff hooked up) just get a daisy chain One Spot or PowerAll.It should be noted that if you want a tiny pedal board like the Pedaltrain Nano boards, only a few of the above mentioned stuff are small enough to mount under them. Otherwise you'll have to mount it above, or use a somewhat larger pedal board that is big enough to mount the power supply underneath.

Apparently 2018-and-later MacBook Pros have a problematic interaction between the T2 processor and USB audio: https://www.extremetech.com/computing/285971-apples-latest-macs-have-a-serious-usb-audio-problem. Apparently Thunderbolt output avoids this issue (and you can get a Thunderbolt -> USB-C adapter easily.)Earlier MBPs (like my 2017) don't have that exact problem, though I've found that the workflow of Focusrite Scarlett -> MBP -> Ableton Suite eventually causes digitally distorted input. (Temporarily fixed by changing the latency value in Suite, and changing it back.) Other audio programs are fine with the Scarlett.If you get a recent MBP with USB-C inputs, you'll want adapters. I've found some third-party USB buses to be unusable--several of them block wifi, for some weird reason. Individual converters work fine, though.The newer MBPs have documented issues with the keyboards. I haven't had mine serviced, but have had sticky/unresponsive/overresponsive keys; with use, these seem to work themselves out. It's annoying that it happens at all, though. (I actually do like the feel of the low-profile keyboard.)