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Nate Dort wrote:Yep, PowerOne supply. 48V @ 1A. Got on ebay for about $30 shipped. I've used kits and etched my own linear supply boards for these before, but this was easier. I've never touched an actual PM1000 console.Thanks Nate. Didn t know that those channel strips are powered with 44 volts. Farnell only has a couple of Bel/Power One supplies none of them even in the ballpark of 48 volts. Funny enough five fish audio has a kit specifically made for the PM1000 channels strips.In the meantime I read through a ten page thread on gearslutz discussing the PM1000. And wow, do people give each other shit about it. Must be one of the most controversial pieces of audio gear ever made. Haha!I actually don t need another console, but will keep watching it and may buy it if the price will drop further, just for the channel strips.

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a couple of weeks ago I ordered some parts from Das Musikding in Germany. while I was there I looked through their guitar pedal kits and came across the Parasit Studio - Into the Unknown - Guitar Synth kit which got me intrigued. bought the kit for 40 Euros (PCB plus parts) and put it together last weekend. it s basically a heavy fuzz with 1 or 2 octaves up 1 or 2 octaves down and an LFO (on the octave up). while it s not a pedal that I will use every day, it sounds quite amazing. on bass as well. used those fancy Illuminated Blue LED 3PDT True Bypass Guitar footswitches for the first time.

current DIY projects you are working on .. or planning on.

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I bought an RME adi-8 ae converter for 450 $ about an year ago. then 2 weeks ago it didn t power up. opened it up to see if the fuse was blown. it wasn t. I checked the secondary voltages. nothing. damn. I already saw me spending a couple of hundred bucks for sending it in and getting it repaired. I googled žRME power supply œ and came across the SFB electronics shop in the Netherlands who are selling parts for RME interfaces. ordered a new power supply for 100$. et voilà, it s working again. nice!

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made another attempt to rack 2 of the Zellweger Uster mic preamps. turns out that they should be run with -24 volts and not as the seller said with a 24 volt positive ground. funny enough they are all labeled for 24 volt positive ground connection. not sure how they were able to test them that way.recapped and trim pots replaced. replaced the stepped input attenuator with a potentiometer. added phantom supply, polarity switch and 20 dB pad. all works great now.

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Adam P wrote:24V positive ground presumably would mean that the ground is positive with respect to the 24V rail, I.e. -24V.those preamps came in what looks like žDannercasettes œ. somebody put stickers on them to show how they should be cabled up. one even came with a card edge connector with cables. both were labeled with the voltage connected to what you would think is žground œ in the circuit . but as you say it reads -24 volts to ground. that s what got me thinking if I couldn t use a negative voltage supply. I googled that and it turns out that you actually can run a PNP fuzz with a negative supply, and also I found a quote saying that a lot of vintage german audio gear used negative voltages. so I tried that and it worked perfectly. the circuit actually also worked when I connected it as described by the original owner, but I guess the voltage started bleeding into the signal when the input attenuator was set to very low resistance to ground. also the phantom supply works fine now.

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ldopa\_chicago wrote:I have yet to take any pictures but I finally completed a prototype of a pedal I started working on at least a couple years ago.Essentially, it's a portion of the TS-series amps they call the "tri-comp." I noticed that unique to all the TS series amps was this funny little PNP transistor circuit right before the master volume. It's identical in all of the TS amps that I've looked at. Figuring that, being unique to these amps, it must be essential to the TS sound and so I decided to put it in a pedal. The circuit splits the signal into three bands with high pass, low pass, and band pass filters and then sums them with gain. This obviously affects the frequency response but also I believe lends a distortion with a little more clarity because the band-splitting prior to distortion helps reduce intermodulation distortion (mix products between frequencies in the incoming signal that are generally not harmonically related).It takes standard 9V in but it has an internal boost converter that turns that 9V into +/-15V, same as the amp. I could convert the circuit to run directly off 9V but I had already made this cool like boost converter module so I opted to use it. It does sound good on its own but it really shines after an overdrive. This makes a certain amount of sense because in the amps it's gain -> EQ -> tri-comp.Will upload pics later!YES! Stoked to hear this!
Pure L wrote:I get shocked whenever I use my table saw while barefooted.


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