I have a gas water heater so this may or may not be a factor but I was looking into a tankless system as well and ended up just replacing my old one (bigass, non-tankless) due to the fact that I couldn't simply reuse the current venting situation. I would've had to move things around my tiny laundry room and drill holes into my foundation. That might be something to think about.

OK, I think it's safe to say I finally fixed that jerkass terlet. When I took the new tank to bowl assembly back off, I noticed a bit of residue I hadn't done a good job of cleaning off when I first installed the thing. Cleaned that up, threw a little silicone sealer on the rubber gasket for good measure, put it all back together. Over an hour later, no more running and the level in the tank hasn't appeared to move. No need to sell the house I guess.

Has anyone here dealt with a dishwasher leak? I have quite a bit of moisture under mine. It's not puddled up, but I saw drips coming from the basemant ceiling below. The tile and grout around are cracked. Just curious if anyone has dealt with something like this. I'm in Iowa City and its been under 10 degrees lately. My guess is small leak->water freezes->breaks tiles. Especially because it's on an outside wall. I have a repairperson coming tomorrow, but just curious if anyone here has any know-how with this stuff.

sitwell wrote:Has anyone here dealt with a dishwasher leak? I have quite a bit of moisture under mine. It's not puddled up, but I saw drips coming from the basemant ceiling below. The tile and grout around are cracked. Just curious if anyone has dealt with something like this. I'm in Iowa City and its been under 10 degrees lately. My guess is small leak->water freezes->breaks tiles. Especially because it's on an outside wall. I have a repairperson coming tomorrow, but just curious if anyone here has any know-how with this stuff.I've recently replaced a couple of dishwashers this passed year. The hose that runs between the dishwasher and the disposal for output is usually pretty cheap and I could see that cracking. I've also just seen them with a rubber fitting and a clamp so it's not always the tightest fitting. Add to it being furthest back underneath the washer any leak can go un noticed. I'd look at replacing that. It shouldn't be that much.If it's not that, I'd check the seal around the door but you'd probably see it dripping out of there. I doubt it's the incoming water as that's usually a nicer threaded hose and if it's been installed for years without issue I doubt it would start there.

pressure regulator.it's the bell shaped brass thing that's near where water enters your building. you may or may not have one. I live in the far ne corner of la, and according to my neighbor can get up to 300psi coming in from city water. all your in house water tools (dishwasher, wash machine, faucets, hot water heater) want more like 50-80psi. so I notice that there's a lot of pressure at my kitchen sink. next morning, my lav faucet is leaking. I know it's the regulator, go adjust it, but it's not bringing down the pressure. go buy a new one, and by the time I get home the reverse osmosis filter has flooded under the sink and my wash machine is filled with water. of course, the new regulator is longer than the one it's replacing, so have to sweat off the joints and cut it down.had to replace the lav faucet (too far gone from oxidation, only $50 for a nice new brass one)took a couple days to diagnose the r.o. filter, drain line was clogged and too short by a 1/2 inch, had new line in the garage. it takes many hours to re pressurize once you disconnect it, so you hook it up turn it on, wait a bunch of hours before it starts leaking.wash machine drained and seems to not be leaking.all in all, if you notice an increase in pressure, you should attend to it soon. could have lost the wash machine, the dishwasher, hot water heater.

What's the thread size and pitch for a steam radiator air vent? The bolt pictured is an M10 1.0, which seems to be as close to correct as something can be that's still not correct. Also it doesn't make any sense that a 40-50 year old radiator in New York would have metric anything. The snapped-off nub didn't fit into the 3/8-24 test sample at Home Despot, and the nub definitely has tighter thread spacing when held up to a 24 tpi bolt.But the actual thread on the actual replacement air vent (seen here as the snapped-off nub) doesn't really thread in any easier. I did my best to clean up the female threads on the radiator (short of chasing them with the correct size tap) and the replacement air vent threaded in far enough where I don't think it's going to leak. The issue is that the air vent is still sticking far enough out of the radiator where I'm worried it's going to get snapped off like the last 2 have.

What's a good mildew and mold repellent/whatever to use before re-caulking a tub?

eliya wrote:What's a good mildew and mold repellent/whatever to use before re-caulking a tub?Not sure about a repellant other than just being diligent about cleaning it. But this works great to clean moldy bathtubs: Mix a paste together of baking soda and bleach. If shit is really nasty, put it on super thick and then cover with plastic wrap to keep it on there for a longer time without drying out. After a while rinse it off and then let it dry completely before re-caulking.

tbone wrote:eliya wrote:What's a good mildew and mold repellent/whatever to use before re-caulking a tub?Not sure about a repellant other than just being diligent about cleaning it. But this works great to clean moldy bathtubs: Mix a paste together of baking soda and bleach. If shit is really nasty, put it on super thick and then cover with plastic wrap to keep it on there for a longer time without drying out. After a while rinse it off and then let it dry completely before re-caulking.You posted a link to that thing of Facebook a while back. I used it and it did remove the mold, but unfortunately it also pulled some of the caulk. Anyway, I tried Tilex mold and mildew repellent product and it works really well for removing mold. So I'm going to use it next time before I recaulk.

Hello, my fuggin' roof has a fuggin' leak in it. The roof is pretty new, installed in something like 2010 or 2012, but based on the lady who owned the place before us, some hack job was hired to do things on the cheap and the sealing on the seams has come apart in a few places over the course of the winter. Some lovely water got in and caused a little damage and some mold got into the wall in a few spots. Our insurance is covering the mold contractor but we're on our own for the roof repairs.Fuck-a my life! Anybody know a good roofing contractor in Chimpago?