Dave N. wrote:
I’ll be in Fez, Morocco next month, after puttering around Spain. Anyone know someone in Fez who could show me around? Anyone ever been to Fez?
Don't know a soul there.
And haven't traveled to that part of Morocco in more than 20 years. A looong time. But I can safely say that I prefer it exponentially to Marrakech. Sure, both are aggressive cities that want your tourist dollar. But Fez feels more like a living, breathing marketplace that goes about its business despite that.
Regardless of what anyone tells you, it's not dangerous (except for maybe the foul odors, holes in the sidewalk, and mule carts coming straight at you w/surprising speed) and a guide is not essential for the medina or souks.
If you have a good sense of direction and you're a seasoned traveler, you won't get horribly lost, only a little. Don't engage the touts (perhaps act like you don't understand English, French, or Spanish) or let them get to you, and you'll have a great time figuring your way out. Also probably best not to buy hash in the medina, either. People will hassle you for handouts, selling drugs, or offering guide services, but stay firm (yet polite) if you're not interested. The medina is noisy, cramped, and stressful, but unlike in Marrakech, it's very much worth it.
In terms of stuff to see in the medina and souks themselves, it will take a few days. It's totally fascinating. You can find most of that basic info on markets, madrasas, tombs, and minarets online or in a guidebook. But to some extent, you'll end up just wandering and following whatever catches your eyes, ears, or nose. A good rule of thumb is to use altitude (up the hill vs. down to the river) as your guide, if going DIY. Also, remember, you're not allowed inside the mosques, although nobody minds if you peer respectfully and inconspicuously into a courtyard or open door.
Sunset views of the city from the Hill of the Marinids (near the Les Merinides Hotel) are unreal. The walk up or down thru Bab Guissa cemetery is also worth it.
You can hang down by the city walls and gates and watch the swallows swarm on some other evening. Particularly picturesque.
Restaurant food here is better than in a lot of Morocco, but, as in most of the country, eating at your guesthouse (if possible) is the way to go for the freshest stuff. This is a nation of primarily home cooks, outside of Rabat, Tangiers, and Casa. You'll find plenty of jam-packed tea parlors and snack shops, but Fez restaurant culture, at least back in the day, was mostly aimed at foreigners and expats and seemed a little dead. But maybe that's changed?
Outside the medina, La Maison Bleue served pricey but pretty great traditional dishes, banquet style. Dunno if it's still upholding its reputation, as this was in 2001. It's fancy and very much a tourist thing (functions primarily as a small hotel, but nonguests can reserve), but this by no means detracted from its charm as a dining destination.
Inside the medina, see if you can find a stall or cafe serving a mixture of green almonds and milk, freshly pureed in a blender (jus d'amande or asir louze). Delicious. Just be mindful of the ice, b/c it might be tap water, which could give you major tummy trouble. Ask for it w/o.
Have fun!