davesec wrote:the snare looks really nice
Thanks.
was it already stained or did you do all that yourself? i wish it didn't have -raeder- or whatever burnt into the size
It's made from bloodwood, also known as "satine". The color is naturally that deep red (some yellow/amber streaks in there as well). The only finish is an application of about 15 coats of pure tung oil, then a finish coat of beeswax/orange oil.
It's
-roeder- by the way. I figure if Peavey has the right to put their name on stuff, so do I.
I can appreciate the "no logo" look though (I cut the tags off my clothing...) The company that made the shell offers digital engraving, and I had "-roeder-" in a CAD file, so I figured what they heck. They do graphics too:
http://www.globaldrumco.net/files/mothengraving.jpgalso how do the lugs sound? i'm curious because the shells are blockboard or whatever you call that and the lugs are so long, i would have thought you'd want to go with really small lugs and not have the crossbar connecting the top to the bottom.
Segment construction. The theory is no plies = less glue = more resonance, especially in thicker shells. It definitely has fullness and a warm "ring" to it.
Tube lugs help keep stresses off the shell when you crank the tension up. Single lugs should never be used on a wood snare in my opinion.
how deep is it? 6.5?
either way it's really beautiful. good luck finding a 15" case for that or whatever!!
It's 7" x 14". Most 6.5 cases will fit a 7" drum. I bought a Humes and Berg Enduro Pro case, the nicest I've found aside from a custom ATA case.
i've been trying to turn crappy shells into better sounding ones..
i recently bought an old westbury for $100, took off the wrap, took off the glue (drummers - if you've done this before i'm interested to know how you're removing wrap glue from old kits.. i'm using paint remover + a hairdryer plus really fine sandpaper)
at the bigger home hardware stores here i asked what you can do to 'improve' wood. i don't know if that was the right question, but they have a compacting machine that seems to mush the plys together so they're all a consistent width, without cracking the wood or anything like that. and then of course you can re-bevel the edges super cheap there so i have been gearing everything to 60 degrees (45 seems standard i think? i read that 60 has way more tone but who knows)
Goof Off is also very good for removing wrap adhesive.
A 60 degree bearing edge will give you a bit more contact between the shoulder of the drum head, which in turn gives a bit more head-to-shell resonance. Great for toms, kinda sucky for snares though if your looking for a controlled sound.
How do they compress the plies at this hardware store?? Do they have a roller press or something? When I think of the troglodytes at the local places around here, I would NOT want them anywhere near one of my drums. Not even an old crappy one.
anyway also what sort of staining/varnishing/shellac'ing techniques are people using?
here's the only picture of the westbury i refinished that i can find, and it's not very good (taken live at some show)
I used tung oil because it's stupid easy to apply. Rub it on...wait....rub it off. Repeat. It also dries to a non-toxic finish, and I can use it in the house with just one window open. This is the pure stuff by the way, most hardware and paint stores sell tung oil mixed with petrolem thinners, which dry faster but the fumes suck.
Nice kit there, good choice stripping the wrap.
