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Sound Proofing

Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 6:00 pm
by mitchellm_Archive
blue\_thunder wrote:sparky wrote:Non-sex noises, blue\_thunder, non-sex noises. (But they're the worst kind.)Non-sex noises??? Do you mean the sounds of crying yourself to sleep in disgust after violently humping the furniture and ejaculating all over your room while watching reruns of the Golden Girls. Sorry, but I don't even think three layers of drywall could contain those horrific noises. I kid.. Hey, ain't nothing wrong with a bit of angry masturbation every now and then.

Sound Proofing

Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 6:00 pm
by Rodabod_Archive
I'd maybe try a large heavy rug on the wall if you can get hold of a cheap one. That'll soak up the jizz.

Sound Proofing

Posted: Wed May 18, 2011 7:00 pm
by audioboffin_Archive
Quite surprising how effective book shelves (preferably full height of the wall) loaded up with books etc can be at absorbing sound and reducing transmission. Attach a packing blanket etc to the back of the bookshelf before positioning it against the wall to gain some more absorption. It won't be 60 dB of reduction, but could be significant enough to take the annoyance factor out.

Sound Proofing

Posted: Wed May 18, 2011 7:00 pm
by bleh_Archive
goosman wrote:blue\_thunder wrote:If you can get the okay from your landlord, the best solution would be to pull off the existing drywall, fill the wall with insulation, reinstall drywall, tape the joints, texture the wall, and paint. For extra isolation, apply 2 layers of drywall before taping the joints.Wouldn't you want to apply a layer of drywall, tape the joints, and then apply a second layer of drywall with the joints staggered and then tape those joints? I believe that's how I've done it in the past.exactly this, minus the taping of the first layer. you could also add some green glue, or something similar in between the layers. i've used it a bunch in the past, i feel its worth the $$$. also, get some acoustical caulk (like normal caulk, but doesnt harden and crack over time). caulk every seam between wall and floor. if such low level things as snores are making it through the wall, the most likely culprit is small gaps at the base/edges. you want that wall to be as airtight as possible. high frequencies make it through the smallest spaces.after this, the floor is the issue.EDIT: wait, this thread is old. just be safe hanging shit.

Sound Proofing

Posted: Wed May 18, 2011 7:00 pm
by goosman_Archive
bishopdante wrote:If you hang PA speakers from the ceiling, hang them from bicycle inner tubes.This is a very dangerous idea.Do not hang heavy things using objects that were designed for other purposes. If you want to hang PA speakers: first of all, use cabinets that were designed to be hung. Most of them aren't. Second, use hardware that was designed to hang objects. There are metal and rubber isolators that are rated for hanging and isolating things that will work in a much safer manner than inner tubes.Hanging PA, lights, etc. is not a trivial thing and should be done with a great deal of care, using the appropriate tools and techniques.

Sound Proofing

Posted: Wed May 18, 2011 7:00 pm
by japmn_Archive
goosman wrote:bishopdante wrote:If you hang PA speakers from the ceiling, hang them from bicycle inner tubes.This is a very dangerous idea.Do not hang heavy things using objects that were designed for other purposes. If you want to hang PA speakers: first of all, use cabinets that were designed to be hung. Most of them aren't. Second, use hardware that was designed to hang objects. There are metal and rubber isolators that are rated for hanging and isolating things that will work in a much safer manner than inner tubes.Hanging PA, lights, etc. is not a trivial thing and should be done with a great deal of care, using the appropriate tools and techniques.I agree 100%. Anything hung should be hung with the proper materials. Rubber (something that degrades quickly) is not something I would to hang something heavy. Everything hung should also have a backup steel safety cable attached. Hanging via steel chain gives you good Mechanical isolation (Vibration has to be transferred through each and every link, it is a very inefficient conduit for vibration) and also a very reliable support. If you want to hang on the cheap go with chain, not bike inner tube.I also agree that people hang shit that isn't made to be hung a lot. If you use eye bolts to hang a cab, use the kind that you attach with a nut on the inside and not the kind that just screws into the wood. That shit fails.I also agree 100% with Animalsonrugs.com

Sound Proofing

Posted: Wed May 18, 2011 7:00 pm
by nc_Archive
taping the inside layer of drywall will not give a noticeable increase in sound containment. no way. staggering your seams is something you should do as standard operating procedure regardless.

Sound Proofing

Posted: Wed May 18, 2011 7:00 pm
by sleepkid_Archive
Rodabod wrote:I'd maybe try a large heavy rug on the wall if you can get hold of a cheap one. That'll soak up the jizz.DOUBLE TIGER RUG ON SALE!!!NIGHT WOLF RUG ON SALE!!!...a horse...A FUCKING WEBSITE CALLED ANIMALSONRUGS! Hot damn.That shit will look good on your wall. You won't even care about what noises your flatmate is making if you have a wall rug as awesome as that.

Sound Proofing

Posted: Sat May 21, 2011 7:00 pm
by catwoman_Archive
blue\_thunder wrote:If you can get the okay from your landlord, the best solution would be to pull off the existing drywall, fill the wall with insulation, reinstall drywall, tape the joints, texture the wall, and paint. For extra isolation, apply 2 layers of drywall before taping the joints. If the door to your room is hollow, replace it will a solid core door.What about sprayed in, or sprayed on, foam insulation?They use it a lot here (US) as a retrofit insulation solution, and I'd imagine there would be something similar there. Or even blown in cellulose insulation? Don't know if it would be cheaper or easier than pulling one side of the drywall and insulating, but it would be less work.I also like the white noise idea, and be sure you don't have any furniture pressed up against the wall that you actually use (the bed, for example). An offset of an inch even, would keep some sounds isolated.

Sound Proofing

Posted: Sat May 21, 2011 7:00 pm
by endofanera_Archive
bishopdante wrote:And you see how scared you all are? Like somebody would erect a death trap. People build death traps all the time. They usually don't realize they're death traps until a) someone like goosman points out why it's a bad idea to do the foolish thing they're planning to do or have already done or b) they're dead. Ok, or injured, but "injury trap" doesn't have the same ring. But still, give people's natural instinct to cheap out and not think things through the same credit you're giving their imagined foresight.