enframed wrote:
OrthodoxEaster wrote: Thu Feb 08, 2024 4:13 pm
The much-hyped Frank Cornelissen's wines used to be a fun, fascinating ride (if not always consistent), but nowadays, they're sort of dull. Victims of their own success?
The story I heard about Frank Cornelissen is that he was visiting the US to promote his wines and was very surprised how much different they performed here than in Sicily; he didn't like his own wines when drinking them in the US. I don't know if he used sulfur in the past, perhaps this was the fascinating and inconsistent part, but he made some changes to his winemaking, I know he uses some sulfur now. IMO the wines are indeed more consistent, and better.
Russo is great, specifically his Feudo d'Mezzo bottling, and his whites are phenomenal. For Etna: Terre Nere, Benanti, Curtaz, Calabretta also very good. Does Calabretta do an actual Etna DOC or does he declassify everything?
See, now I heard it was more b/c of the use of a colder cellar and possibly b/c of personnel changes. He does employ a little sulfur now, but not often, I don't think. And the wines started flattening out before that, in my opinion. I just find them way less thrilling and vibrant, despite the increase in consistency. Some of them are also way too expensive.
I don't hate Susucaru rosé now, it just doesn't drink like it did during the very best releases years ago. (Hell, I've also heard cynics claim that Action Bronson endorsing it increased demand, which led to a more technocratic approach in the cellar. But that last conclusion might be a bunch of bullshit.)
I met Cornelissen once. Very different dude than his reputation. Extremely pleasant. Not dogmatic.
Still, I miss the old wines. When they were bad, they sucked. Alcoholic heat. Stink. But when they were on, they were amazing.
Sicily is funny. So much great wine there, but most people still drink garbage. (Although maybe you could say that about most places?)
Calabretta used to be DOC. But Massimliano was declassified to an IGT quite a few years ago now. Dunno if he didn't wanna play by the rules or pay off the right people. Or if he was merely kicked out of the scene, maaaaan.
Maybe add Passopisciaro to that list of good trad Etna?