Owen wrote: Sat Jan 07, 2023 10:10 am

Owen wrote: Wed Jan 04, 2023 4:59 pm I took the amp back to the tech. The tech was not in, but I spoke to the owner. He was apologetic, I know shit happens, and they seem like they are going to take care of it and fast track it for me. They didnt even try to place blame on me, which I have had happen at other places.

I am not saying this is the case, but this place is being a little weird about my amp, just communication has turned vague and I am starting to get nervous they really fucked something up. IF for example, they blew the OT of my vintage Orange, what are my options? Can I demand them to give me the cost of the amp? Like if they offer to make it right be putting a new OT, that still degrades the value of my amp significantly. I am not in this position yet (and I HOPE it is not the case and they are just busy or its something simple), but I have never been in that position and would love to prepare myself for the worst.

Missed this the other day, but I would find it HIGHLY unlikely that a tech would/could burn up your OT. I've never done it, but am under the understanding that it takes a decent amount of negligence to kill one. Doing stupid shit and/or horribly mismatching impedances, and doing that for long enough that the OT heats up enough to short windings. Its just not something I see happening on a tech's bench.

Dr Tony Balls wrote: Tue Jan 10, 2023 9:02 am

Owen wrote: Sat Jan 07, 2023 10:10 am

Owen wrote: Wed Jan 04, 2023 4:59 pm I took the amp back to the tech. The tech was not in, but I spoke to the owner. He was apologetic, I know shit happens, and they seem like they are going to take care of it and fast track it for me. They didnt even try to place blame on me, which I have had happen at other places.

I am not saying this is the case, but this place is being a little weird about my amp, just communication has turned vague and I am starting to get nervous they really fucked something up. IF for example, they blew the OT of my vintage Orange, what are my options? Can I demand them to give me the cost of the amp? Like if they offer to make it right be putting a new OT, that still degrades the value of my amp significantly. I am not in this position yet (and I HOPE it is not the case and they are just busy or its something simple), but I have never been in that position and would love to prepare myself for the worst.

Missed this the other day, but I would find it HIGHLY unlikely that a tech would/could burn up your OT. I've never done it, but am under the understanding that it takes a decent amount of negligence to kill one. Doing stupid shit and/or horribly mismatching impedances, and doing that for long enough that the OT heats up enough to short windings. Its just not something I see happening on a tech's bench.

Thanks Doc that is reassuring. I am trying to be cautiously optimistic and just going to relax until they call.

I am embarrassed to say that the reason the amp blew the fuse and didnt have any sound....I had the ohm selected (which is like a jumper/or peg like system) passed the 16ohm to the right by one little click. Thus causing all my problems, and it was...user error. What a dink (me).

Owen wrote: Wed Jan 11, 2023 11:45 am I am embarrassed to say that the reason the amp blew the fuse and didnt have any sound....I had the ohm selected (which is like a jumper/or peg like system) passed the 16ohm to the right by one little click. Thus causing all my problems, and it was...user error. What a dink (me).

HA. Understandable. No one is immune to a little dum-dum operator error from time to time.

Dr Tony Balls wrote: Wed Jan 11, 2023 2:31 pm

Owen wrote: Wed Jan 11, 2023 11:45 am I am embarrassed to say that the reason the amp blew the fuse and didnt have any sound....I had the ohm selected (which is like a jumper/or peg like system) passed the 16ohm to the right by one little click. Thus causing all my problems, and it was...user error. What a dink (me).

HA. Understandable. No one is immune to a little dum-dum operator error from time to time.

Years ago, my bass cab (SWR 4x10) was making horrible high end noise, especially harsh when I hit the distortion pedal. Ended up taking every speaker out, measuring to make sure they weren't blown, trying different cables, etc etc etc.

Then my friend and I realized that the tweeter switch had gotten moved to the on position. Turned it back of, everything sounded like it should, after an hour or two of scrambling nonsense troubleshooting.

tallchris wrote: Wed Jan 11, 2023 3:00 pm Years ago, my bass cab (SWR 4x10) was making horrible high end noise, especially harsh when I hit the distortion pedal. Ended up taking every speaker out, measuring to make sure they weren't blown, trying different cables, etc etc etc.

Then my friend and I realized that the tweeter switch had gotten moved to the on position. Turned it back of, everything sounded like it should, after an hour or two of scrambling nonsense troubleshooting.

Goddam I hate tweeters in bass cabs so effin much.

tommy wrote: Tue Dec 27, 2022 12:16 pm

Tom Wanderer wrote: Thu Dec 22, 2022 8:17 am Squier Classic Vibe Mustang tuning stability issues.

If anyone has other advice I would love to hear it.

...I always used vintage Mustang bridges too set up for it to rock but be in tune in the middle. Using a Mastery (or any bridge that doesn't rock) on a Mustang wouldn't personally be my first choice due to the easy wide swing on the trem design.

You're right. When I knocked the rocking bridge in an earlier post I was wrong. I put the Mustang (rocking) bridge and thimbles back in on Sunday morning and I've been playing it for about an hour each day since. It's staying in tune. Thank you!

So now I'm using the bridge that came on the CV and an official Fender trem. I didn't end up doing anything more to the post holes/knife edge. Still using 11s with the springs on the middle setting, cigar low but equal distance from the baseplate on the treble and bass sides. I went through all sorts of things to get the Mastery bridge to work, but no matter what I did the 3 wound strings moved the saddle up and down when the trem was used and it didn't return to the exact same position, just like in this guys vid;
https://www.reddit.com/r/offset/comment ... using_the/
That guy talked to John at Mastery who assured him it could be made to work. I started to go through those fixes, I moved the cigar really high up to lessen the tension from the break angle. When that didn't do the trick I started to rethink. I didn't want to shim the neck and go through all that just to accommodate a bridge that might not work out anyway. Anyway, I went back to the rocking bridge and it was a definite and noticeable improvement. I'm happy!

I love the Mastery on my JM, but there's a long, low break angle over the bridge to the baseplate compared to the Mustang where the angle is short and steep and the tension on the saddles is much higher. I really don't see how it could be made to work on a Mustang without some pretty drastic reworking, unless you lock the trem.

Thanks for the advice, Tommy. It was worth getting this sorted out.

I got my RE20 back from ElectroVoice/Bosch yesterday. I complained at first about how slow the process was, but once I put the money down things started moving! I sent the mic in last Tuesday, they received it on Thursday and I got a notification Friday afternoon that it was already shipping back to me.

With tax and everything it was $300, but it was worth it. They put in a new mic element, new roll off switch and pcb, all new wiring, new foam, new XLR connector, some miscellaneous hardware. Essentially a new mic in the well worn and much loved body of my old one. Factory tested with a printout of the response. They even cleaned it up. The price was steep, but it didn't seem like there was any way I could fix the issue myself. Considering the extent of the service, I'm totally satisfied. The element itself sells for $350.

Tom Wanderer wrote: With tax and everything it was $300, but it was worth it...

Essentially a new mic in the well worn and much loved body of my old one.

This rules, so much better than junking it and buying a new $300 mic. Salut.

Teacher's Pet wrote: Thu Jan 19, 2023 10:04 am

Tom Wanderer wrote: With tax and everything it was $300, but it was worth it...

Essentially a new mic in the well worn and much loved body of my old one.

This rules, so much better than junking it and buying a new $300 mic. Salut.

Disagree. RE-20's are easy to come by in GOOD condition for ~$300 if you're patient. The element itself is like $250 and you can get an ugly working one for that or less. I have 4 (one is dead) and the most expensive was $220 tax and shipping included. I ordered new foams from Bosch 'cause they all needed it, but it's an easy enough thing to DIY. If the mic itself was a good deal (see: Free) when you got it, this is a decent investment I suppose, but I absolutely HATE that the cost to repair is greater than the cost of a complete functional unit on the used market. I'm not really precious about that new car smell though...