Dietz Cabinets.

3
Here you are (be patient, it's a 14MB TIFF file):

http://www.thebismarck.net/images/tl606.tif

I have a Dietz at the house as well and the measurements are very similar. One thing to note is that the Dietz has the speaker mounted behind the baffle and the EV plans insist that it must be mounted from the front. As such, the baffle on the Dietz is 3/4" closer to the front of the cabinet than on the EV. The Dietz cabinet also has nothing like the 3" insulation mentioned in the plans either. Of course, my Dietz had a fucking Peavey speaker in it when I bought it so what do I know?

And by the way - if anyone is selling some 400W versions of the EVM-15L, you let me know.

Best of luck,

Dan

PS - I also have the plans for the 12" version scanned if anyone wants those. These are basically what Mesa Boogie sells as the "Thiele" cabinets.

PPS - Perhaps you would enjoy listening to some music while you download your purloined plans?

http://www.thebismarck.net/mp3/index.html

Dietz Cabinets.

4
danmohr wrote:if anyone is selling some 400W versions of the EVM-15L, you let me know.


the best bass speaker i have found

PS - I also have the plans for the 12" version scanned if anyone wants those. These are basically what Mesa Boogie sells as the "Thiele" cabinets.


i have mesa boogie cabs that are the same basic design as the dietz cabs. same porting, etc. it's a stock thiele/small design.

the speakers mount from the front, and they are mounted with fuckin' wood screws, which means you have to put t-nuts in. but they sound swell.

PPS - Perhaps you would enjoy listening to some music while you download your purloined plans?

http://www.thebismarck.net/mp3/index.html


may i recommend the bismarck? so good.

Dietz Cabinets.

5
I was at Electrical last february and measures a bass cab.

Here's my rudimentary notes.

3/4" ply

Outside measurements
24" tall
19.5" wide
18" deep

baffle measurements
1.5" of height to the port
1.25" sunk back from front edge of outside
port went 3.25 inches into trhe cabinet befor it opened up.


that's about it, from that you can get all the measurements for the ply shell and build the frame inside it.

Cheers,
Ben Adrian

Dietz Cabinets.

6
danmohr wrote:Here you are (be patient, it's a 14MB TIFF file):

http://www.thebismarck.net/images/tl606.tif

I have a Dietz at the house as well and the measurements are very similar. One thing to note is that the Dietz has the speaker mounted behind the baffle and the EV plans insist that it must be mounted from the front. As such, the baffle on the Dietz is 3/4" closer to the front of the cabinet than on the EV. The Dietz cabinet also has nothing like the 3" insulation mentioned in the plans either. Of course, my Dietz had a fucking Peavey speaker in it when I bought it so what do I know?

And by the way - if anyone is selling some 400W versions of the EVM-15L, you let me know.

Best of luck,

Dan

PS - I also have the plans for the 12" version scanned if anyone wants those. These are basically what Mesa Boogie sells as the "Thiele" cabinets.

PPS - Perhaps you would enjoy listening to some music while you download your purloined plans?

http://www.thebismarck.net/mp3/index.html


I cannot thank you enough.

Is so beautiful, to share these measurements.

These Bismark, is good music.
"Why stop now, just when I'm hating it?" - Marvin

Dietz Cabinets.

9
tmidgett wrote:i have mesa boogie cabs that are the same basic design as the dietz cabs. same porting, etc. it's a stock thiele/small design.

the speakers mount from the front, and they are mounted with fuckin' wood screws, which means you have to put t-nuts in. but they sound swell.


Yes. Having built two of these, I can offer a few tips:

1. Mount your speaker with T-nuts (these pound into the back of the baffle). There's not a lot of wood between the speaker cutout and the mounting holes and you do not want the thing to tear out.

2. In order to simplify assembly (but complicate construction), I used rabbets on the carcase pieces cut with a dado stack on the table saw (modifying the plans slightly to maintain the same final dimensions). This is a much stronger joint (which sort of obviates the need for the internal bracing, but there you go) and will allow you to square the thing up much easier. Using some longer set time glue will help as well if you are working alone.

3. If you want to use standard cabinet corners, use a 3/8" roundover bit on the outside edges. Stewart-MacDonald has decent ones for pretty cheap.

4. Markertek has some sweet heavy-duty 5x7" spring loaded handles. These cabinets are not light - spring for the extra few bucks.

5. I fashioned jack plates out of 4" wide 1/8" thick aluminun stock cut to size on a chop saw and mounted from the inside.

6. I cut grilles from 13 ga expanded steel mesh (3/4" spacing) using a SawzAll and a hacksaw/Dremel to touch up. I mounted the grills to the baffle using six large rubber stoppers on the baffle side to cushion the grill (and hopefully prevent some rattling) and then on the other side, a rubber washer, a fender washer, a finish washer and a drywall screw through the whole thing the way God intended.

We used 3/4" (18mm actually, I think) Baltic Birch plywood which is pretty much ideal. I figured that these things would last two lifetimes if built right and we're kind of "tough on pants" as they say.

I'll post some pictures tonight.

Dan

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