skatingbasser wrote:scott wrote:when it gets quiet, if you give the amp a little thud with your hand (firmly, but not super-hard) does anything happen?
Had he said "it gives a little thud/boom sound back" you would say...?
If physically jarring the amp causes it to change the way it operates, or how it's behaving or whatnot, then the problem is an intermittent connection, some solder joint or tube socket or such... Once the amp warms up a bit (i.e. 10 minutes of operating a tube amp) it causes some piece somewhere to expand and break that connection, or break it more than when it's cold, or something like that.
My guess, at this point, would be that something's awry with one or more of the tubes. Other than the performance of the tubes themselves, there isn't a whole lot that should change with temperature like that. Or to say it better, it is a known fact that the operation of tubes is directly affected by temperature, and that temperature changes as the amp is operated. Yeah, capacitors can be affected by heat, but they pretty much shouldn't. And I think that usually, "problem after 10 minutes" is gonna be heat related.
Have you tried operating the amp with a fan blowing nice and hard into the back of it? Does that change anything? Extend the time before it freaks out, or prevent it from freaking out?
f you play the amp, and have somebody sitting there watching the tubes, do one or more of them start to glow orange after a bit?
I'm still thinking something is mucked up with your output transformer.
Also, in all sincerity, if your tech is a normal amp tech, it wouldn't surprise me if he dropped in the new tubes and checked the bias and sent it out the door. If you don't play the amp at a loud, working volume, to put it through its paces, you're likely to miss a fucked up tube and think everything's okay.
I've bought brand new tubes, dropped them in an amp, biased it up, and plugged in to play, and everything was fine. But within maybe only 10 minutes, one of the output tubes exhibited a shorted element, started blowing fuses, etc. To an amp tech, on the bench, the amp would have left the shop performing just perfect. And as soon as we fired it up to play, it would have been like "WTF?!?!"
I would first check the resistance of the speaker cabs, and the amp's output transformer. Then I would check all the tubes with my tester(s). Then I would try firing up the amp and see what the voltages are like, on the output tubes' pins 3,4,5, and also the cathode current (cause that's how I normally bias amps). Then I would look at the DC and AC voltage values at each of the filter caps, to see if anything looked whack. If all of that shit checked out, *then* I would try operating the amp at a medium level, sitting behind it and watching the output tubes to see if any of them start to red-plate. And also, check the temperature of the output and power transformers with my hand every couple minutes or so. If that worked fine, then I'd crank it up to full, or near-full, and again watch the tubes and check the temperature of the OT and PT. And then if the amp was still getting all quiet, but not showing any signs of red-plating or overheating, then I would scratch my head a bit, and go through and check every little thing inside the amp, doing the "tap it with something non-conductive" test, to see if I could find a problem. And if that also turned up nothing, then I'd probably check the values of all the resistors, especially in the power section and the plate supplies for the preamp section, and then replace all the electrolytics unless they're all already new.
Then I would drink a berrs.