mdc wrote: Sat Jan 04, 2025 11:09 pm

twelvepoint wrote: Fri Dec 27, 2024 8:27 pm Anyone here use Yamaha cymbal stands? Thinking about buying 3 model 755s which are medium duty single braced booms. I think pretty classic design and I recall they always seemed really well made.

I've had a single braced yamaha straight stand for about 25yrs that has never given me a moment of trouble.

Good to know!


I did order one, and it arrived yesterday. It’s a 755. Single braced with a boom that can drop into the upper tube if you want, effectively, a straight stand. The tilt and other adjustments are smooth and the overall weight is sturdy without being overkill. This is for a 21” medium/light ride that needs 8-10” of boom. I notice Yamaha makes some even lighter stands (I think 600 series) that I may get for smaller crashes.

Drum hardware is pretty mundane, so thanks for indulging me here!

I guess I have trouble distinguishing between dual mono (l + r) and stereo - am I overthinking this?

llllllllllllllllllll wrote: Wed Jan 08, 2025 7:18 am I guess I have trouble distinguishing between dual mono (l + r) and stereo - am I overthinking this?

What's the context?

Nate Dort wrote: Wed Jan 08, 2025 7:33 am

llllllllllllllllllll wrote: Wed Jan 08, 2025 7:18 am I guess I have trouble distinguishing between dual mono (l + r) and stereo - am I overthinking this?

What's the context?

I read some reviews about some random Neve-style hardware compressor I can’t afford seeming to operate better at dual-mono than stereo.

I understand stereo linking would typically use one set of controls where as dual mono would use two (which can then be set identically for a stereo source)

Similarly, if I’m looking at hardware outs on my i/o:

I have the option to designate out 1 as stereo (which also uses out 2) or I can use out 1 and 2 as two separate mono outs and then pan them left and right - is there a difference there?

llllllllllllllllllll wrote: Wed Jan 08, 2025 9:35 am

Nate Dort wrote: Wed Jan 08, 2025 7:33 am

llllllllllllllllllll wrote: Wed Jan 08, 2025 7:18 am I guess I have trouble distinguishing between dual mono (l + r) and stereo - am I overthinking this?

What's the context?

I read some reviews about some random Neve-style hardware compressor I can’t afford seeming to operate better at dual-mono than stereo.

I understand stereo linking would typically use one set of controls where as dual mono would use two (which can then be set identically for a stereo source)

Similarly, if I’m looking at hardware outs on my i/o:

I have the option to designate out 1 as stereo (which also uses out 2) or I can use out 1 and 2 as two separate mono outs and then pan them left and right - is there a difference there?

For the IO there is no real difference. Your Daw will see it as a "Stereo" out, but can also probably pick each side as a "Mono" out. In your IO making it "Stereo" probably just gangs the Gain setting.

In a lot of compressors the most important thing that changes from "Stereo" to "Dual Mono" mode is the way the side chain affects the compresion. In "Stereo" both sides are being compressed by a summed sidechain signal (and in old DBX I think maybe just uses Left Side as Reference), so the left and right will compress the same based on that input, in "Dual Mono" mode the Left and Right sides are compressing completely independent of each other, using each side as the sidechain input. This can sometimes be helpful for preserving stereo width as you get a more independent Left and Right processing. I always run Drum Overheads in Dual Mono, with identical settings.

My Carvin Steve Vai© cabinet has an "Input" jack on the left panel. Self explanatory. The right jack says "EXT". I assume this is for an extension cab.

So can I go buck wild and hook an extension cab from the primary cab? And run a third cab from the 2nd out on the head? What is this "EXT" jack.

Apple computer question.

I’ve got an old 2013 iMac that I use for mostly GarageBand for my kids. It’s been updated as far as it can be but is grindingly slow. Anyone know if this is due to having upgraded the operating system beyond its capabilities, and if so is it possible to roll back the OS? Blanking it is fine.

Can you throw more RAM at it? It was awhile ago, but I had a Mac mini (2011ish) that slowed after an upgrade and I was able to run it pretty well for a long time with a RAM upgrade.

Gramsci wrote: Mon Jan 13, 2025 3:59 pm Apple computer question.

I’ve got an old 2013 iMac that I use for mostly GarageBand for my kids. It’s been updated as far as it can be but is grindingly slow. Anyone know if this is due to having upgraded the operating system beyond its capabilities, and if so is it possible to roll back the OS? Blanking it is fine.

Sometimes it's just time for a new one.

twelvepoint wrote: Mon Jan 13, 2025 8:26 pm Can you throw more RAM at it? It was awhile ago, but I had a Mac mini (2011ish) that slowed after an upgrade and I was able to run it pretty well for a long time with a RAM upgrade.

Unfortunately the RAM is soldered in on that model.

It’s just for the kids to use GarageBand with a keyboard. I did a bit of googling and it looks like a full OS reinstall could be the trick. Nothing to lose so I’ll try.