Cant tell if there is anything else on that board like some sort of crossover network but if you don't care about overload protection you can bypass that light bulb with a piece of wire maybe. Just get it out of there?Frankie99 wrote: Tue Feb 03, 2026 12:05 pm I bought a yorkville 4x10 bass cab.
Get it home, no sound, amp goes into protect when connected and played. Tested with another working head, no sound again. Opened up the input module on the cab and I see what you see below, with a burned out lighbulb as a fuse of some sort? Can't seem to find a lot of info online, anyone had experience with something like this? I thought I was just getting a passive 4x10.
You can scrap all of that stuff if you just want to run it as a plain ass 4x10. You'll lose the crossover capability and the limiting feature, though.Frankie99 wrote: Tue Feb 03, 2026 12:05 pm I bought a yorkville 4x10 bass cab.
Get it home, no sound, amp goes into protect when connected and played. Tested with another working head, no sound again. Opened up the input module on the cab and I see what you see below, with a burned out lighbulb as a fuse of some sort? Can't seem to find a lot of info online, anyone had experience with something like this? I thought I was just getting a passive 4x10.
It seems like a legitimate question to me. Especially in a bass cab that moves around and is heavy as fuck. Feels like a problem just waiting to happen.
They're more like a limiter. When there's excess current being drawn a fuse breaks. A light bulb absorbs that excess power by lighting up and then goes dim again when it dies back down. I think this is only used when tweeters are involved...twelvepoint wrote: Tue Feb 03, 2026 2:00 pm I had a pair of Community PA speakers that used lamps as fuses. Why did they not use fuses as fuses? I do not know.
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